How to Thin Hair

Thick, heavy hair can be difficult to manage no matter what kind of hairstyle you wear. Luckily, there are techniques you can use to thin it out and make it easier to style. You can easily tame thick hair by thinning it with shears, styling it differently to make it look smoother, and changing your haircare routine to reduce thickness.

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:

Using Thinning Shears

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1
Purchase a pair of thinning shears. Thinning shears are often used by stylists in salons, and look like scissors with a thick, serrated edge. They are designed to cut about 15% of the hair, resulting in hair that still holds its shape and style but has less volume and density.^{[1]XResearch source}
- You can buy the shears from beauty supply stores or the hair care section of most department stores.
2
Begin working with clean, dry hair. Before thinning your hair, shampoo and dry it as normal. If you tend to let your hair air dry, do that; if you use a blow dryer, go ahead and style it that way. Your hair should be as close to its normal, everyday texture as possible. This prevents you from over-thinning your hair.^{[2]XTrustworthy SourceAmerican Academy of DermatologyProfessional organization made of over 20,000 certified dermatologistsGo to source}
- Don't add any styling products to your hair before thinning it. These can clog the shears and change how full your hair looks, which will affect your ability to thin it properly.
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3
Gather a 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) wide section of hair to thin. It's best to thin a section at a time, and thin the same amount all around your head. Hold the first section away from your head and clip the rest back, focusing on just the ends of the section that you have.^{[3]XResearch source}
- If your hair is shorter, you might have fewer sections because it’s difficult to thin hair that is close to the scalp.
4
Use the thinning shears to cut your hair down the shaft.^{[4]XExpert SourceYan Kandkhorov
Hair StylistExpert Interview. 28 January 2020.} Place the scissors with the serrated edge facing down about 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) from the end of your hair, and position the shears at a 45-degree angle. Then, close the shears over your hair and open them. Move them down 1 inch (2.5 cm), closing them over the hair again. Repeat until you reach the bottom of your hair.^{[5]XResearch source}
- If you face the serrated edge down, then the hair will be thinner underneath, but it'll be hidden by longer pieces of hair.
- Be careful about starting too close to the roots. With thinning shears, you want to make cuts about 1 inch (2.5 cm) from the ends of the strands of hair. If you cut too close to the roots, you hair may end up with a weird texture.^{[6]XExpert SourceYan Kandkhorov
  Hair StylistExpert Interview. 28 January 2020.}
5
Comb the thinned section of hair. Run a comb through a few times to remove all the cut pieces of hair. Then, take a look at the newly thinned section. Compare the section to the rest of your hair to see if you’ve thinned enough.^{[7]XResearch source}
- If you think the hair is still too thick, go back and make a couple more cuts with the thinning shears. You can move slightly further up the shaft of the hair if necessary to prevent cutting the same place too many times.
6
Repeat with the rest of your hair. Section by section, use the same method to thin out your hair until you have moved all the way around your head. To make sure it looks even, try to make the same number of cuts each section.^{[8]XResearch source}
- Remember to comb out each section after you thin it to compare it to the rest of your hair. This will help to keep the cut even and prevent over-thinning.
- If you have trouble seeing the back part of your hair, face away from a mirror and position a hand-held mirror in front of your face to view the reflection of the back of your head. Alternatively, you may want to ask someone to trim the back of your hair for you, if you can.

Method 2

Method 2 of 3:

Styling Your Hair Differently

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1
Opt for a longer, layered cut if the ends of your hair tend to be fuller. With short cuts, thick, bushy ends can rise to a point at the top of your scalp, giving your hair an unbalanced look, especially if you use thinning shears. Layers help to redistribute the volume for an overall look that is sleeker and less poofy.^{[9]XExpert SourceYan Kandkhorov
Hair StylistExpert Interview. 28 January 2020.}
- Tell your stylist that your hair feels too full and heavy on the bottom, and that you'd like long layers for a thinned-out look.
- Try to avoid blunt cuts that tend to be less forgiving of areas with more thickness. If you have a blunt cut, ask your stylist to incorporate more layers, especially if you’re growing your hair from a shorter style.
2
Style your hair with a blow dryer for an easy everyday look. Start drying at the roots and work down to the ends. Position a round brush underneath the hair to brush the hair in a downward motion as you apply heat to the top of the hair. You can rotate the round brush slightly at the end of the hair to add a small curl, or just let the hair slide through the brush.^{[10]XResearch source}
- Try to avoid pulling up on the hair as you dry it with the brush because this can add volume to your roots and make the hair look thicker.
- After drying thick hair, it can sometimes look frizzy due to the water evaporating from the hair. A taming product like argan hair oil or anti-frizz serum can help keep the hair looking sleek throughout the day.
3
Use a flat iron for an even thinner look. Flat irons use very hot metal plates to make the hair as flat and thin as possible. Make sure your hair is completely dry, then slowly pass the iron over 1 in (2.5 cm) sections of hair 1-2 times to make sure it’s completely straight.^{[11]XResearch source}
- When you use a flat iron, always apply a heat protector serum to your hair before styling to prevent hair damage.
- Try to avoid straightening sections more than 2 times because this can cause breakage from the iron pulling on the hair. If you find your hair isn’t straightening after 2 passes, increase the heat. If this still doesn't help, then you may need to switch to a flat iron that has ceramic, titanium, or tourmaline plates.
4
Consider chemical straightening for a semi-permanent solution to thick hair. Treatments like the Brazilian Blowout and keratin straightening change the chemical structure of the hair to keep it looking sleek and thin. A hair stylist will apply the chemical to your hair in a multi-step process that involves heating the hair and styling it to be straight and smooth.^{[12]XTrustworthy SourceCleveland ClinicEducational website from one of the world's leading hospitalsGo to source}
- Although they’re sometimes advertised as “permanent,” these can treatments require touch ups and re-applications every few months, depending on your hair and the treatment.
- These treatments are expensive and sometimes release irritating chemicals into the air when applied to the hair. If you have budget constraints or have had a reaction to chemical treatments in the past, you might want to consider other options.

Method 3

Method 3 of 3:

Changing Your Hair Care Routine

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1
Wash your hair in cold water to reduce volume and frizz. Washing your hair with hot water causes the hair shaft to open, resulting in a lot of frizz and extra volume. Using cold water causes the hair shaft to lie flat, resulting in sleeker, shinier, less puffy-looking hair.^{[13]XTrustworthy SourcePubMed CentralJournal archive from the U.S. National Institutes of HealthGo to source}
- If you hate cold showers, go for lukewarm instead. Even the slightly reduced temperature will help your hair look thinner.
- Instead of washing your whole body in cold or lukewarm water, you could also put your hair up in a shower cap during your regular shower and then wash it separately in cold water afterward.
2
Shampoo your hair only 2-3 times per week. Aim to wash your hair every 3-4 days to utilize natural oils that keep your hair healthy and protected. The rest of the time, simply rinse your hair with cool water. It may take your hair some time to get used to this new routine, but you can use products like dry shampoo to keep your hair looking fresh in the meantime!^{[14]XTrustworthy SourceCleveland ClinicEducational website from one of the world's leading hospitalsGo to source}^{[15]XExpert SourceArthur Sebastian
Professional Hair StylistExpert Interview. 29 April 2019.}
- When shampoo your hair use a quarter-sized amount of non-volumizing shampoo and focus on cleaning your scalp rather than your hair.
- Sulfate-free and paraben-free shampoos are other great options to consider.^{[16]XExpert SourceArthur Sebastian
  Professional Hair StylistExpert Interview. 29 April 2019.}
- Washing your hair with shampoo every day removes the natural oils that keep it looking sleek and healthy.^{[17]XExpert SourceArthur Sebastian
  Professional Hair StylistExpert Interview. 29 April 2019.} This can cause your hair to look bushy, frizzy, and thick.
3
Use apple cider vinegar instead of conditioner. Mix half vinegar, half water in an old conditioner or spray bottle to use as a conditioner. Apply it all over your hair when you're done shampooing and rinse it out at the end of your shower. When your hair dries, it will look soft and shiny, rather than frizzy and bushy.
- Conditioner contains agents that coat your hair and can make it look thicker. Apple cider vinegar has many of the same smoothing effects as conditioner, but won’t coat your hair.
- Be aware that apple cider vinegar has a very strong smell, so you may want to apply it sparingly at first to make sure your hair and scalp don’t absorb the scent. One great way to disguise the scent is to apply a scented leave-in product, such as a conditioning spray, after your shower.
4
Use volume-reducing hair products. There are a variety of gels, creams, and serums on the market that are designed to straighten or tame unruly hair. Depending on the product, you can either apply it before or after styling your hair to tame frizz, add shine, or smooth waves.^{[18]XResearch source}
- If you have curly or textured hair, look for products made specifically for your hair type. They can help tame the frizz and puffiness without damaging natural curls.
- Avoid using mousse and other products that are made to increase volume.

Expert Q&A

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Question
What should you not do with thin hair?
Arthur Sebastian
Professional Hair Stylist
Arthur Sebastian is the Owner of Arthur Sebastian Hair Salon in San Francisco, California. Arthur has worked as a hair stylist for over 20 years and received his Cosmetology License in 1998. He believes that the true work of a successful hair stylist comes from passion and a love for hairdressing.
Arthur Sebastian
Professional Hair Stylist
Expert Answer
Be sure not to deep condition your hair too often, as deeper conditioners tend to create a buildup on the air. You definitely don't want to overfeed your hair with nutrients, since this can make it brittle.
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Question
What is thinning out hair for?
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Expert Answer
Thinning helps thick hair to have a less bulky appearance. It softens layers and improves hair's movement.
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Do layers make your hair look thinner?
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Expert Answer
Long layers will remove bulk from the hair, making it look less heavy. Rounded layers will add volume, making the hair appear fuller.
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Tips

Visit a salon to get your hair thinned before purchasing shears and trying it yourself. Pay attention to the stylist's technique so you'll know how to do it at home.
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Always work slowly and carefully when cutting your hair with thinning shears to avoid getting carried away.
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If you’re having trouble managing thick, unruly hair, ask your stylist to recommend products, cuts, and styling methods that might work better for you. Don’t be afraid to speak up if you’re unhappy with your current style.
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Blow dry your hair using a round brush to smooth strands down, and avoid lifting at the roots–that boosts volume. Focus heat on the top to stretch the hair shaft, not on the ends.
Layered cuts remove weight, allowing thick hair to fall more gracefully. Tell your stylist thick ends tend to triangle out unflatteringly and you’d like a long, layered shape.
Opt for a blunt razor-cut if you prefer an edgy straightened style. The clean line creates an ultra sleek edge with less bulk. But touch-ups are needed as it grows out.
Switch to washing hair in cool water, not hot, to close cuticles and cut down on poof. Lukewarm water would also work if icy rinses are too harsh for your liking.
Shampoo less often to retain natural oils that help hair lie flat. Try shampooing 2-3 times per week. Rinsing with just cool water between shampoos helps too.
Ask your stylist to demonstrate proper thinning shear technique so you avoid over-cutting when trying it yourself initially. Learning firsthand is invaluable.

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