Wrapping Porch Posts with Wood: A Beginner’s Guide

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Adding Spacers to the Posts

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Attaching the Wood Panels

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Sealing & Painting the Posts

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If you’re less than thrilled about your home’s plain-looking porch posts, wrapping them can be a quick and easy alternative to having new ones made. Wrapping porch posts is a simple DIY project that essentially involves constructing a boxlike facade around ordinary squares posts to build them up and give them a more impressive, stately appearance. When you’re done, you can add other visually-pleasing touches, like a new coat of paint or a few pieces of decorative molding, to make your upgraded posts even more ornate.

How to Wrap Porch Posts with Wood

Fasten wooden spacers around the bottom, middle, and top of the posts.
Cut 4 wooden panels for each post. Each panel should be the same height as the post, and the same width as the post with the spacers attached.
Fasten the panels around the posts using nails every 6-8 inches (15–20 cm).
Fill the exposed nail holes with wood filler.
Seal the gaps between the panels with caulk.
Finish the posts by painting or staining them.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Adding Spacers to the Posts

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1
Measure the height and width of your porch posts. Stretch a tape measure from the floor of your porch up to the ceiling or bottom of the upper level deck alongside one of the posts. Then, extend it across the post from one vertical edge to the other. Jot down both dimensions on a separate sheet of paper. You’ll use them to cut the wooden panels for your new facades to the appropriate size.
- Record the dimensions of each of your posts separately. They should all be the same height and width, but there’s no guarantee that they are.
- Rarely, porch posts may be rectangular rather than square. If your porch posts are rectangular, be sure to note the dimensions of both the longer and shorter sides.^{[1]XResearch source}
2
Cut 6 pieces of 1 in- (2.5 cm) thick wood to the width of your posts. Use a circular saw, miter saw, or portable table saw to trim a single long board into identical sections. The width of these pieces should correspond exactly to the width of your porch posts, while the height can be 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) longer than the width, depending on the exact dimensions of the posts. These pieces will serve as the first set of spacers for your facades—one piece for the left and right sides of the post at the bottom, middle, and top.^{[2]XResearch source}
- If you have basic porch posts made from painted 4x4s, for instance, you might cut your spacers to be 4 inches (10 cm) wide and 5–6 inches (13–15 cm) tall.
- Double the number of pieces for each additional post you'll be wrapping. For a standard pair, you’d need a total of 12 pieces cut to width; for 4 posts, you’d need 24; for 6, you’d need 36, and so on.
Tip: The taller your spacers, the more room you’ll have to comfortably fasten the panels of the facade later on.
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3
Fashion a second set of spacers wide enough to enclose the first set and post. Take the width of your porch posts and add to it the thickness of the board you’re using to make your spacers times 2. Your second set of spacers needs to be wide enough to fit over the front and back of the posts with the first set of spacers in place on either side. That way, the edges will all sit flush with one another.^{[3]XResearch source}
- To ensure that all of your components fit together the way they’re supposed to, it’s important to actually measure your spacer wood rather than simply trusting the listed dimensions. 1x4 boards, for example, are only ³⁄₄ in (1.9 cm) thick, rather than the advertised 1 in (2.5 cm).
- If the post you're wrapping is 16 inches (41 cm) wide and the boards you're working with are ³⁄₄ in (1.9 cm) thick, your second set of spacers would each need to be 17.5 inches (44 cm) wide.
- Write down the exact width of your wider spacer pieces. Doing so will make it much easier to rip the panel boards for the facades later.
- Be sure to cut 6 additional spacers for each extra post in your building plan.
4
Place the spacers around the bottom, middle, and top of your first post. Brush a thin layer of wood glue onto the backside of the 2 narrower pieces and press them to the sides of the post. Do the same for the wider pieces and guide them onto the front and back of the post, double-checking that their edges are aligned with the edges of the first set. Repeat the process at the middle and top of the post.^{[4]XResearch source}
- You may need a step ladder to secure the uppermost set of spacers.
- By the time you’re done, you’ll have used a total of 12 spacers for each post.
Tip: To confirm that your middle spacers are centered, mark the midpoint of each post (use the measurements you took earlier) as well as your first 2 spacers and simply line up the marks.
5
Fasten the spacers with four 2 in (5.1 cm) finishing nails. Drive a nail into all 4 corners of each spacer. Make sure the nails you put in the corners of the wider spacer pieces are seated firmly in the outside edges of the narrower pieces. Tap the nails in until the heads are flush with the surface of the wood.^{[5]XResearch source}
- Using a combination of wood glue and nails will make it easier to get all the spacers into position and improve the sturdiness of the finished facades.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Attaching the Wood Panels

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1
Cut a series of wooden boards to the same height as your porch posts. You’ll need a total of 4 pieces for each post—one for every side. For the sake of stability, it’s best to cover each side of the post with a single panel, so be sure to pick up boards that are longer than your posts are tall. Trim the excess length from each board using your saw.^{[6]XResearch source}
- Ordinary 1x4, 1x6, or 1x8 boards will work best for most post-wrapping projects. For slightly bulkier facades, you can also use 2 in (5.1 cm) boards.^{[7]XResearch source}
- If all of your posts are exactly the same height, you can save yourself some time by sawing your first board to length, then using it as a template to cut the rest of your panels in quick succession.
2
Trim your panel boards lengthwise to match your posts' new width. Trace the widths of your 2 sets of spacers onto the boards to serve as a guide for cutting. Set the fence on your saw to correspond to the desired dimensions of each board. Feed the boards into the blade vertically to split them into panels of a suitable size to cover the exterior of the posts around the spacers.^{[8]XResearch source}
- This step will be a cinch if you recorded the width of your wide spacer pieces earlier—all you have to do is mark and rip your panel boards to the same dimensions.
- When you’re finished, you should end up with 2 wide panels and 2 narrow panels with edges that fit squarely together.
3
Press the panels into place around the sides of the post. Brush the face of each exposed spacer with wood glue to make sure that the panels don't slip while you focus on maneuvering the next piece into position. Start with the sides, just like you did with the spacers, then move onto the front and back pieces.^{[9]XResearch source}
- Placing the wider panels on the front and back of each post will prevent the seams between the individual boards from being visible when looking directly at the porch.
4
Fasten the panels with nails every 6–8 inches (15–20 cm). If possible, use a nail gun to speed things along. Otherwise, a hammer will get the job done just fine. Secure all 4 panels individually along both sides, focusing on making the rows of nails along both sides as symmetrical as possible.^{[10]XResearch source}
- For a strong and inconspicuous assembly, use 3.5 in (8.9 cm) finishing nails. These will be long enough to bridge the gap between the outer panels and the posts themselves and seat securely.
- Remember to repeat this process for every post you’re wrapping.

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Sealing & Painting the Posts

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1
Attach decorative molding to lend added elegance to the finished posts. Cut some spare 1 in (2.5 cm) boards to a height of roughly 4–6 in (10–15 cm) and fasten them to the lower part of the posts to form a set of simple baseboards. You can then cut a length of pre-shaped panel molding to fit around the top and bottom of the baseboards to jazz them up a bit. Secure the ends of each strip of molding using 1.5 in (3.8 cm) finishing nails.^{[11]XResearch source}
- Shop around for a type of molding that complements the style of your home and the vision you have for your updated porch.^{[12]XResearch source}
2
Fill the exposed nail holes with wood filler. Spread a liberal amount of wood filler over each hole using the flat edge of a putty knife, then let it sit for 5-10 minutes, or until it dries completely. Run a sheet of high-grit sandpaper (120-grit or higher) over the dried filler with smooth, circular motions to sand down the excess material and bring it level with the surrounding surface.^{[13]XResearch source}
- Wipe the surface with a damp cloth before and after you apply the wood filler to make sure it’s free of sawdust and other debris.
- It isn’t necessary to fill the nail holes in your new posts, but it will give them a more seamless look and make for an effortlessly even paint job.
3
Seal the gaps in the facade with polyurethane-based caulk. Apply a thin, even line of caulk to the vertical seams between the panel boards. Then, seal all 4 horizontal edges at the top and bottom of the posts. Allow the caulk to dry for 3-12 hours as specified by the product directions.
- If you opted to add molding or similar decorative elements, be sure to seal the areas where the individual components come together, as well.
- Caulking the edges of the facade will prevent moisture from becoming trapped inside and causing rot or mildew.
4
Paint your new posts to match your home's exterior. Apply a smooth, even coat of primer over the entire outer surface of each post. Once the primer dries to the touch, brush on 2-3 coats of water-resistant, latex-based outdoor paint. Let each coat dry for the amount of time recommended in the product directions before applying follow-up coats.^{[14]XResearch source}
- Allow your final coat of paint to set for at least 24 hours before handling the posts or making any further modifications.
- Look for paints designed specifically for use on decks and porches. These typically contain tough resins that will help them stand up better to wear-and-tear.^{[15]XResearch source}
Tip: If you don’t mind spending a little more money, you can cut out an extra step by using pre-primed boards, which you’ll find at any hardware store or home improvement center.^{[16]XResearch source}

Expert Q&A

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Question
What's the best way to build a subframe when I'm wrapping porch posts or columns with wood?
Tony Hoang
Landscaping Manager
Tony Hoang is a Landscaper and the Principal at H&J Landscaping & Concrete Contractor in Newark, CA. With over six years of experience, he specializes in designing the perfect concrete driveways & backyard patios for homes. H&J Landscaping & Concrete Contractor is a 4.5-star business on Yelp.
Tony Hoang
Landscaping Manager
Expert Answer
The key steps are to first figure out the dimensions you want your finished posts or columns to be, then subtract the thickness of whatever wood cladding you'll be using. That will tell you how big to make the subframe. Construct the subframe out of treated lumber and securely attach it to the existing posts or columns using exterior-rated screws or nails. Once the subframe is solidly in place, you can install the cladding material. If using sawn wood planks, remember to re-treat any fresh cuts you make to protect the wood from moisture damage. And always use exterior-rated fasteners when attaching the cladding to the subframe — this will hold up better over time. Taking the time to build a proper subframe will ensure your finished wrapped posts or columns are sturdy and built to last.
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Tips

Some companies sell ready-to-install post-wrapping kits made from from long-lasting materials like cellular PVC. One of these kits can come in handy if you don’t want to go to the trouble of measuring, cutting, and assembling the various components yourself.^{[17]XResearch source}
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