Download ArticleDownload ArticleThis article was co-authored by Mia Danilowicz. Mia Danilowicz is a Master Tailor who works onset and on the red carpet in Los Angeles, California. With over a decade of experience, Mia specializes in bridal and gown couturier fittings, garment reconstruction, and custom design. Mia has worked at the Oscars, Grammys, SAG Awards, and Golden Globes. Her clients include a long list of entertainment and fashion industry headliners, major fashion magazines, luxury consumer brands, and popular media. Mia was trained at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising and received her AA in Fashion Design and BS in Business Management.
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One-sided hem tape usually comes as lace tape. This kind of apparel support tool, or notion, may be easier to use than regular fusible web hem tape because you apply the tape over the edge, creating a natural and seamed finish. This is great for any garment care if the edges are frayed or the length is wrong. This tape also allows you to wash and dry clean your item. Always check the label or do a small test before using this tape.
Steps
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1Prepare the fabric or clothing that you plan to use. Mark where you would like the hem to be using a pin or any other means while you are wearing the pants. Flip the clothing article inside out to expose the inside of the garment. Using a ruler and a marking pen, mark where the pants will be folded. If you don’t have a washable pen or air erasable pen, chalk is a good substitute.
2Cut the item a little longer than your desired length. Remember you will need to fold it and then apply the hem tape over. Depending on your tape width it can vary. Usually, it's about 25mm or 1 inch.Advertisement
3Fold the part you want to hem with the tape. All of the item should be inside out except the bottom where you will iron on the hem tape. Make sure the item is the length you want it to be.
4Cut your adhesive tape to the length of the hem of the pants you will be covering. Cut a little more than necessary. Half an inch is more than enough.- Depending on your hem tape, you will soak the tape in water. It is recommended to soak for 3-5 minutes. After it is soaked, take out and apply the adhesive side over the raw hem. The adhesive side is the one with the white woven strings. It will look shinier on the sides than on the non-adhesive side. Other hem tapes do not need soaking. Check the instructions that came with it to confirm.
- Depending on your hem tape, you will soak the tape in water. It is recommended to soak for 3-5 minutes. After it is soaked, take out and apply the adhesive side over the raw hem. The adhesive side is the one with the white woven strings. It will look shinier on the sides than on the non-adhesive side. Other hem tapes do not need soaking. Check the instructions that came with it to confirm.
5Place the adhesive side down over the raw hem. Place the tape near the edge of the cut hem, straight and covering all of the edges.
6Press the hem tape. If your material is not cotton, it is recommended to use a press cloth in between the iron and your item. Using your iron on medium heat (150*C or 302*F) press on the hem tape. Do not slide the iron. Only press applying your weight for about 10 seconds. Move on to the next section.
7After you have completed the iron presses, wait for the material to cool. If you happen to make a mistake, take a damp press cloth and iron over the hem tape. After it has heated, you may peel the tape off gently. There may be residue left so it's best to try again with fresh tape.
Expert Q&A
Tips
- It’s recommended to iron the fold so the crease becomes more visible and easier to manage.Thanks
- Be careful when using pins. Safety pins or plastic pins can be used.Thanks
Warnings
- When applying the iron, it should be a quick action seal. If it takes longer than 10 seconds, check the heat and match it with the garment's label.Thanks
- It is not recommended to press with high heat as the adhesive can become loose and tangled. Use low heat or air dry.Thanks
- Before using any type of hem tape, check your clothing's label. Any items that say not to iron or iron on low heat, water-repellent clothes, leather, nylon, or very thin cloth may not be suitable for iron-on hems.Thanks
Expert Interview
Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about tailoring clothes, check out our in-depth interview with Mia Danilowicz.
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