How to Lay Tile on Concrete

An easy DIY guide on laying tile evenly and cleanly over concrete

Installing tiles on concrete subfloor doesn't actually require a contractor. As long as you take the time to level the floor, install a membrane, and layout your tile properly, you can lay down a beautiful arrangement of tiles on concrete within a week. This article will walk you through the whole process step-by-step, from prepping the concrete to putting down the tiles.

Part 1

Part 1 of 4:

Preparing the Concrete

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Follow up with a detergent, like tri-sodium phosphate (TSP). Make sure the area is well ventilated when you use this strong chemical cleaner.
If it is not level, you will want to purchase self-leveling underlayment to create an even surface. If there are pockmarks and cracks, you will want to use some leveling compound or filler.
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Some leveling underlayment products, like LevelQuik, also sell a primer to be used with their self-leveling compound. Wait for it to dry according to package directions.
Pour it in the lowest area of the concrete floor. It will seek its own level.
Smooth down the edges of the compound against the adjoining concrete with a smooth trowel. Wait for the leveling compound to dry completely.
$How.com.vn English: Step 6 Purchase an anti-fracture membrane to lay over your leveled concrete.$
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Purchase an anti-fracture membrane to lay over your leveled concrete. This will help prevent cracking of tiles. You can purchase it in sheets or in liquid form.^{[1]XResearch source}
- Opt to cut sheets of “Ditra” membrane to fit the area you are tiling. You will need to apply thinset to the concrete and smooth the membrane sheets down with a trowel.
- You can also paint a thick coat of liquid anti-fracture membrane on the concrete with a roller brush.
- The anti-fracture membrane keeps an insulated layer between the concrete and the tile so that it can move with the change of seasons and temperature without cracking the tiles.^{[2]XResearch source}

Part 2

Part 2 of 4:

Preparing the Layout

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Use a carpenters square or triangle ruler (try square) to check that the lines are perfectly perpendicular. Alternatively, mark a spots 3' and 4' away from the center point. If the distance between the two is exactly 5', the lines are perpendicular (since a 3-4-5 triangle is a right triangle). If not, adjust the center lines.
Cover the whole surface in a thorough dry run.
In almost all cases, tile must be cut near the edges to finish the tiling.
Move a center line to one side enough so that you have even tile cuts on all sides.
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Cut your tiles near the edge of the room. If you need to make small, intricate cuts use tile nippers. Use a tile cutter if you are cutting vinyl tile.
- Use a wet saw to cut ceramic tile to fit in narrower spaces.
- You can also cut tiles with a 4-inch angle grinder with a masonry blade in it.
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Check that your newly cut tile fits back into your layout before you start to lay the tile.
- Leave a 1/4" gap on all edges (by walls, cabinets, fireplace hearths, etc.) to allow for thermal expansion.

Part 3

Part 3 of 4:

Laying Tiles

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This is where you will start the installation. You can remove the tiles quarter by quarter or all at once, as long as you know where they will go.
Place the bucket and a one-fourth inch (0.6cm) notched trowel near your empty quarter. You may want to put on knee pads during the installation process.
Smooth it over the entire area with a smooth trowel.
The lines should be horizontal and run the same direction throughout your installation.
5
Set your first tile against the corner of the center line. Push down lightly to ensure it adheres. Keep a bucket of water and a damp sponge nearby to wipe off tiles if they get thinset on the top.
- Wipe them off immediately to avoid ruining the surface of the tile.
6cm) tile spacers between the tiles, if you want even, thick grout lines. You can also skip using spacers and create a thin grout line at the end of your installation.
Check that they are level. If a tile is not level, you can “back-butter” it by placing an extra layer of thinset in a corner to make it level.
Take your time to ensure you have an even surface. Use a 4' carpenter's level, if you have one.

Part 4

Part 4 of 4:

Grouting Tiles

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Make sure it is lump free before spreading it.
Hold the float at a 45-degree angle and run it across the surface of the tile. Repeat until all the grout spaces seem to be filled.
Return and clean the top of the tile with a damp sponge. Clean it often and ensure it isn't too wet.
Buff the surface of the tile with a dry cheesecloth. Let the grout continue to dry for 72 hours.
Apply sealant to the grout with a sponge paintbrush. If you want to seal the entire tile to resist water, you can apply some sealants with a large sponge.

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Warnings

Never install tiles onto fresh concrete. Allow it to cure for over a month to ensure a dry, strong surface.^{[3]XResearch source}
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