Second wine or second label (French: Second vin) is a term commonly associated with Bordeaux wine to refer to a second label wine made from cuvee not selected for use in the Grand vin or first label. In some cases a third wine or even fourth wine[1] is also produced. Depending on the house winemaking style, individual plots of a vineyard may be selected, often those of the youngest vines, and fermented separately, with the best performing barrels being chosen for the house's top wine and the other barrels being bottled under a separate label and sold for a lower price than the Grand vin.

Three second wines from Bordeaux: Clos du Marquis, the second wine of Léoville-Las Cases, Chevalier de Lascombes, the second wine of Château Lascombes, and Les Hauts de Smith, the second wine of Château Smith Haut Lafitte.
The Grand vin and Second vin of the Second Growth estate Château Lascombes; the Second vin is called Chevalier de Lascombes.

In less favorable vintages, an estate may choose to release only a second label wine rather than to release a smaller than normal quantity of its Grand vin or a wine that would not be consistent with past vintages under that name. The practice has its roots in the 18th century but became more commercially prominent in the 1980s when consumers discovered these wines as a more affordable way to drink the product of a First growth or classified Bordeaux estate without paying the premium for the estate's label and classification.[2] The opposite phenomenon, of only releasing a top wine in exceptional years (rather than in most years) is seen in Iberia (Spain and Portugal) in "Gran Reserva" reserve wine and vintage port.

From the producer's point of view, a second wine allows the winery to use a stricter selection for its Grand Vin, while still capitalising on its name and distribution channels in selling the second wine, which will be much more profitable than selling off lesser wine "anonymously" to be used in e.g. negociant bulk bottlings.

History

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The practice of establishing a second wine began in the 18th century as way for Bordeaux winemakers to be more selective of the wine going into their estate label wine without wasting the remaining wine. According to records, Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande shipped its "second wine" of the 1874 vintage to the 1891 Exposition française in Moscow,[citation needed] although La Réserve de la Comtesse would not be for sale to the public until 1973.[3][4] Château Brane-Cantenac may have had a second label some time in the 18th century according to Decanter, but more evidently, Château Léoville-Las Cases first produced its Clos du Marquis in 1904, and Château Margaux followed with Pavillon Rouge produced from 1908.[5]

Château Mouton Rothschild released the poor 1927 vintage, then named Carruades de Mouton, followed in 1930 by Mouton Cadet as a second label, selling wine from previous difficult harvests considered unfit as château Grand vin vintage at reduced prices, eventually to successful response.[6][7] The estate has since expanded with more labels pushing Mouton Cadet further down its portfolio,[2] with Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild currently the estate's second wine and Mouton Cadet evolving into its own brand with a distinctly different marketing strategy.[6]

In the drive to higher quality that has taken place in recent decades, additional Bordeaux châteaux have added second wine. With the increased market competition since the 1980s, estates became more selective in the assemblage stage, making greater parts of the production disposed to be either sold off in bulk, or blended into second (or third) wine.[8][9] For example, since the 2009 vintage, Château Margaux has produced three wines that are bottled, and a fourth wine which is sold in bulk.[1]

Having a second wine is generally a part of the recipe prescribed by Michel Rolland and similar wine-making consultants. As an example, Château Kirwan, a Third Growth in Margaux, added their second wine Les Charmes de Kirwan in 1993, after Rolland was brought in.[10]

Production

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In many ways the production of a second wine mirrors the production of estate's Grand vin being made from the same vineyard, with the same blend of grapes and by the same winemaker. Some selection takes place already after harvest, when plots that are often underperforming or are planted with younger vines will be earmarked for the second wine, which means that they receive a "cheaper" treatment with a lower percentage of new barrels. Additional selection will be done after the barrel aging when the winemaker will isolate the best performing barrels that most reflects the house style of the estate label with the remaining wine being bottled under second or even third and fourth labels.

The second wine may have some hints and characteristics of the estate wine but is typically less polished and structured than the estate wine. An estate will rarely promote its second wines and most wine labels will not even mention the parent estate because of the desire to keep the estate solely associated with its Grand vin.[11] However, some high end producers market their second wine as a "wine for earlier consumption" (i.e., quicker to mature) rather than "a lesser wine".

Naming and classification practices

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Second wines often do not have the word "château" in their name, but they frequently sport some other part of their winery's name to add name recognition. The second wines of classified growths, since they are different wines, are not themselves part of the 1855 classification or other classifications. They are, however, entitled to use the same appellation as the Grand Vin, as they originate from the same terroir. As an example, Les Forts de Latour is an AOC Pauillac just like Château Latour, but is not a First Growth or any other kind of classified growth.

List of Bordeaux second and third wines

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Médoc 1855 classed growths

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First Growth estatesSecond wineThird wine
Château LatourLes Forts de Latour[2]Le Pauillac de Château Latour[12][13]
Château MargauxPavillon Rouge de Château Margaux[2]Margaux de Château Margaux[12][14]
Château Mouton-RothschildLe Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild[2]
Château Haut-BrionLe Clarence de Haut-Brion (previously Château Bahans Haut-Brion)[15]
Château Lafite RothschildCarruades de Lafite-Rothschild[11]
Second Growth estates
Château Rauzan-SéglaSégla
Château Rauzan-GassiesChevalier de Rauzan-Gassies (previously Enclos de Moncabon)[5]
Château Léoville-Las CasesLe Petit Lion de Marquis de las Cases (replaced Clos du Marquis since 2007)
Château Léoville-PoyferréChâteau Moulin Riche
Château Léoville BartonLa Réserve de Léoville Barton
Château Durfort-VivensVivens de Durfort-Vivens (previously Domaine de Curebourse)[5]
Château Gruaud-LaroseSarget de Gruaud-Larose
Château LascombesChevalier de LascombesChâteau Segonnes
Château Brane-CantenacBaron de Brane
Château Pichon Longueville BaronLes Tourelles de Longueville
Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande  Reserve de la Comtesse[11]
Château Ducru-BeaucaillouLa Croix de Beaucaillou[11]Le Petit Ducru de Ducru-Beaucaillou
Château Cos d'EstournelLes Pagodes de Cos[16]
Château MontroseLa Dame de MontroseLe St-Estèphe de Montrose[12]
Third Growth estates
Château KirwanLes Charmes de Kirwan[10]
Château d'IssanBlason d'Issan
Château LagrangeLes Fiefs de Lagrange
Château Langoa BartonLady Langoa[17]
Château GiscoursLa Sirène de Giscours
Château Malescot St. ExupéryLa Dame de Malescot
Château Cantenac-BrownBrio de Cantenac-Brown
Château Boyd-CantenacJacques Boyd
Château PalmerAlter Ego de Palmer (replaced Réserve du Général in 1998)[18]
Château La LaguneMoulin de la Lagune
Château DesmirailInitial de Desmirail
Château Calon-SégurChâteau Marquis de Calon
Château FerrièreLes Remparts de Ferrière
Château Marquis d'Alesme BeckerMarquise d'Alesme
Fourth Growth estates
Château TalbotConnétable de Talbot
Château Branaire-DucruDuluc de Branaire-Ducru
Château Duhart-Milon-RothschildMoulin de Duhart
Château PougetAntoine Pouget
Château La Tour CarnetLes Douves de Carnet
Château Lafon-RochetLes Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet
Château BeychevelleAmiral de Beychevelle
Château Prieuré-LichineLa Cloître Prieuré-Lichine
Château Marquis de TermeLes Gondats de Marquis de Terme
Château Saint-PierreEsprit de Saint-Pierre
Fifth Growth estates
Château Pontet-CanetLes Hauts de Pontet-Canet
Château Haut-BatailleyChâteau La Tour l'Aspic
Château Grand-Puy-LacosteLacoste-Borie
Château Grand-Puy-DucassePrélude à Grand-Puy Ducasse
Château Lynch-BagesEcho de Lynch-BagesPauillac de Lynch-Bages
Château du TertreLes Hauts du Tertre
Château DauzacLa Bastide de DauzacChâteau Labarde
Château Haut-Bages-LibéralLa Chapelle de Bages
Château PédesclauxFleur de PédesclauxLe Haut-Médoc de Pédesclaux
Château BelgraveDiane de Belgrave
Château de CamensacLa Closerie de Camensac
Château Cos LaboryLe Charme Labory
Château Croizet BagesLa Tourelle de Croizet-Bages
Château CantemerleLes Allées de CantemerleBaronne Caroline
Château Clerc MilonPastourelle de Clerc Milon
Château BatailleyLions de Batailley
Château Lynch-MoussasLes Hauts de Lynch-Moussas

Sauternes 1855 classed growths

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First Growth estatesSecond wine
Château La Tour BlancheLes Charmilles de Tour Blanche
Château Lafaurie-PeyragueyLa Chapelle de Lafaurie-Peyraguey
Château Clos Haut-Peyraguey  La Gourmandise de Clos Haut-Peyraguey
Château de Rayne-VigneauMadame de Rayne
Château SuduirautCastelnau de Suduiraut
Château CoutetChartreuse de Coutet
Château ClimensCyprès de Climens
Château GuiraudPetit Guiraud
Château RieussecCarmes de Rieussec (previously Clos la Bere)[5]
Château Sigalas-RabaudLieutenant de Sigalas
Second Growth estates
Château Doisy-DubrocaLa Demoiselle de Doisy
Château Doisy-VédrinesChâteau Petit Védrines
Château d'ArchePrieuré d'Arche
Château NairacEsquisse de Nairac
Château CaillouLes Erables de Caillou
Château de MalleSaint-Hélène
Château Romer du HayotChâteau Andoyse du Hayot
Château LamotheLes Tourelles de Lamothe
Château Lamothe-GuignardL'ouest de Lamothe-Guignard

Other Bordeaux

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Graves classed estatesSecond wineThird wine
Château BouscautLes Chênes de Bouscaut
Château CarbonnieuxLa Croix de Carbonnieux,[19] Château Tour Léognan[20][11]
Domaine de ChevalierL'Espirit de Chevalier[21]
Château CouhinsCouhins La Gravette
Château de FieuzalL'Abeille de Fieuzal[3]
Château Haut-BaillyHaut-Bailly II[22]HB[22]
Château Latour-MartillacLagrave-Martillac[23]
Château Malartic-LagravièreSillage de Malartic[24]
Château La Mission Haut-BrionLa Chapelle de la Mission[25]
Château OlivierLa Seigneurie d'Olivier du Chateau Olivier[26]
Château Pape ClémentLe Clémentin du Pape Clément[3]
Château Smith Haut LafitteLes Hauts de Smith[27]
Saint-Émilion classed estates
Château AusoneChapelle d'Ausone[28]
Château Cheval BlancLe Petit Cheval[11]
Château AngélusCarillon de L'Angélus[11]No. 3 d'Angélus
Château PavieAromes de Pavie
Château BeauséjourCroix de Beauséjour[29]
Château Beau-Séjour BécotTournelle de Beau-Séjour Bécot[30]
Château CanonClos de Canon[31]
Château FigeacPetit Figeac[32]
Clos FourtetCloserie de Fourtet[33]
Château Larcis DucasseMurmure de Larcis Ducasse[34]
Château La Fleur MorangeMathilde
Château La GaffelièreClos La Gaffelière[35]
Château MagdelaineLes Songes de Magdelaine (previously Château Saint Brice)[36]
Château Pavie-MacquinLes Chênes de Macquin[37]
Château La Tour FigeacL'Esquisse de La Tour Figeac
Château Troplong MondotMondot[3]
Château Trotte VieilleLa Vieille Dame de Trotte Vieille[38]
Château Canon-la-GaffelièreCôte Mignon La Gaffelière[39]
Château Grand Corbin-Despagne  Petit Corbin-Despagne[40]
Médoc Cru Bourgeois
Château d'ArsacKid d'Arsac[41]
Château Chasse-SpleenL'Héritage de Chasse-Spleen and L'Oratoire de Chasse-Spleen[42]
Château Haut-MarbuzetChâteau MacCarthy[43]
Château Labégorce ZédéDomaine Zédé and Z de Zédé[44]
Château Phélan SégurFranck Phélan[45]
Château PotensacLa Chapelle de Potensac (previously Château Lassalle)[46]
Château PoujeauxLa Salle de Poujeaux[47]
Château CitranMoulins de Citran[3]
Unclassified estates
Château BeauregardLe Benjamin de Beauregard (previously Domaine des Douves)[48]
Château La ConseillanteDuo de Conseillante[49]
Château L'ÉvangileBlason de L'Évangile
Château Gazinl'Hospitalet de Gazin[50]
Château GloriaChâteau Peymartin[51]
Château LafleurLes Pensées de Lafleur[52]
Château MazeyresLe Seuil de Mazeyres[53]
Château NéninFugue de Nénin[3]
Château Petit-VillageLe Jardin de Petit Village[3]
Château RougetVieux Château des Templiers[3]
Château Sociando-MalletLa Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet[54]
Château TrotanoyEspérance de Trotanoy
Château ValandraudVirginie de Valandraud and 3 de Valandraud[3][55]
Vieux Château CertanGravette de Certan[56]
Château l'Église ClinetLa Petite Eglise

List of non-Bordeaux second and third wines

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California

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WineryFirst wineSecond wine
Opus One WineryOpus OneOverture
Dominus EstateDominusNapanook
Screaming EagleScreaming EagleThe Flight
Harlan EstateHarlan EstateThe Maiden
Grace FamilyGrace FamilyBlank
ScarecrowScarecrowM. Etain

Italy

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WineryFirst wineSecond wineThird wine
Ornellaia (Tenuta dell'Ornellaia)OrnellaiaLe Serre NuoveLe Volte
Masseto (Tenuta dell'Ornellaia)MassetoMassetino
Tenuta San GuidoSassicaiaGuidalbertoLe Difese
Tenuta Luce della ViteLuceLucente

Spain

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WineryFirst WineSecond wineThird wine
Vega SiciliaUnicoValbuena 5o
Alvaro PalaciosL'ErmitaFinca DofiLes Terrasses
Marques de MurrietaCastillo YgayMarques de Murrieta Gran ReservaMarques de Murrieta Reserva
Bodegas NumanthiaTermanthiaNumanthiaTermes
Bodegas ContadorContadorLa cueva del contadorPredicador
Dominio de PingusPingusFlor de PingusPSI

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b "Fact Sheet". Retrieved 2024-03-13.
  2. ^ a b c d e J. Robinson (ed) "The Oxford Companion to Wine" Third Edition pg 618-619 Oxford University Press 2006 ISBN 0-19-860990-6
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i Conan, Eric, L'Express (January 24, 2005). "Les grands crus dégriffés" (in French). Archived from the original on October 15, 2007.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link)
  4. ^ pichon-lalande.com Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, la Réserve de la Comtesse Archived 2008-02-15 at the Wayback Machine (in French)
  5. ^ a b c d The New York Times (August 16, 1989). "Wine Talk". The New York Times.
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  9. ^ winepros.com.au. Oxford Companion to Wine. "assemblage". Archived from the original on 2008-08-09.
  10. ^ a b "Wine Journal Producer Profile Château Kirwan". Archived from the original on 2013-01-22.
  11. ^ a b c d e f g K. MacNeil The Wine Bible pg 148 Workman Publishing 2001 ISBN 1-56305-434-5
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