The Barmen lace machine makes perfect copies of torchon lace and the simpler hand-made bobbin lace. Its bobbins imitate the movements of the bobbins of the hand-made lace maker.[1]
History
editThe Barmen machine was developed in the 1890s in the Prussian city of Barmen, now part of Wuppertal, Germany, from a braiding machine. The Barmen laces were derived from solid braids later pieced with openwork.[2]
Design of machine
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A.Spindle set in top plateB.Yarn threaded up to mandrillC. Beater domeC1.Beater knivesD. Mandrill (variable settings)E. Finished LaceF. JacquardG. Pulley for drive beltH.Hand wheelK. Beater camsL. Take-up rollsM.Handle to engage drive belt
The Barmen machine has its spindles arranged in a circle, each one carrying a large bobbin of thread. These can pass each other, so their threads twine together in a complex way. The threads run towards the centre, where the finished lace appears, rising upwards. The machine can only make one width at a time, and has a maximum width of about 120 threads. The lace is made as a cylinder. When finished, threads are removed to allow the flat strip to appear.[2]
Uses
editBarmen machines can make laces, trimmings, elasticated and rigid braids, cords and ric-racs. Barmen lace is still produced in Britain by Malmic Lace Limited, in Nottingham.[3]
References
edit- ^ Jeremy Farrell (2007). "Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace" (PDF). DATS (Dress and Textile Specialists) in partnership with the V&A.
- ^ a b Earnshaw, Pat (1986). Lace Machines and Machine Laces. B.T. Batsford. ISBN 0-7134-4684-6.
- ^ "Malmic Lace Limited". Malmic Lace Limited.
External links
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Media related to Barmen lacemaking machines at Wikimedia Commons- Video of a Barmen machine in action. Lacemaking machine
