How to Tell the Quality of a Japanese Sword

Most people buy swords because they look cool, or they are or want to be a collector. Well if you ever take up kendo or kenjutsu those "cool" swords you bought for a lot may turn out to be actually a cool cash trap. While you're reading this you can learn some Japanese terms also.

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Skip this step if there is no Tsukaito.^{[1]XResearch source}
If someone says the sword is carbon steel they probably don't know what they're saying, in this context (Steel always has carbon in it otherwise it would be iron). However, more generally, the term carbon steel is useful to distinguish non-stainless from stainless blades. A genuine ancient or functional Japanese blade would not be stainless, however. If it is stainless, it is almost certainly a modern reproduction designed to only be placed on a wall - it will have little value and will not hold an edge well, if at all.^{[2]XResearch source}
If the blade has been properly maintained or is recently created for use (some genuine modern blades do exist) then ensure the blade is sharper than any kitchen knife you've ever known. Be careful of cutting yourself!^{[3]XResearch source}
This is called a fuller in Western blade parlance, and it is generally accepted that it is used to lighten the blade, and make it more flexible, while not weakening it. Some other schools of thought suggest it exists so you could pull the sword out someones muscle and tissue which normally creates suction holding the blade in someones body (in which case it is referred to as a 'Blood Groove'). Rarely it may have been be used to cut out an impurity in the metal.
The back of the blade and the adjacent sides should be shiny (there are katas which you use your katana to make sure no one is behind you by using the mirror-like surface of the sword), but the center and edge may be more matte (but still reasonably polished) and should have a wood-like 'grain' or water-like pattern (think ripples or waves). These patterns are unique to each blade (if genuine and not etched) and are a major part of a particular blade's beauty and personality. In ancient blades the pattern forms as a result of the layering and forging process, but in modern blades it may be 'fake' and a result of acid etching.^{[4]XResearch source}
Gendo for blades made from 1877-1945). As a rule of thumb the older it is the better quality it is likely to be, although the work of individual smiths is a major factor in this (ie. an ancient blade by a minor smith may not be the equal of a more recent blade by a famous master). In particular any blade made just prior to or since about WW2 has a higher probability being mass produced and/or inferior, though some reputable modern smiths do exist. On average these more recent blades would be worthwhile for training or souvenir purposes, but less so as a collectible.^{[5]XResearch source}
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Do some research. If investing serious money then before you do so, get a good book on valuing antique Japanese blades, look at as many as you can to get a sense of them (go to a museum), or (best of all) have the item assessed by a professional.
- If the sword is of significant historical importance or value, and you have mucked it up by touching it bare-handed, understand that it costs up to $1,000 an inch to have it properly polished.

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I have a stamped blade that starts with H and Japanese lettering behind the H. How do I verify if this is authentic when I don't know Japanese lettering?
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Copy the symbol onto paper as best you can then photograph it in Google Translate to read it.
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What if the sheath and handle are carved wood?
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Traditional japanese blades do have wooden sheaths, as well as wrapped wooden handles. It's okay if your katana doesn't have a wrapped handle, but it is traditional. Usually if your katana is unwrapped, it shows that the maker doesn't know too much about katanas, but by all means, don't think this means their work is low quality!
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Does the Tsuba have to be a specific material?
Community Answer
Yes and no. The Tsuba can be of any material, but it is usually iron, brass or steel. But be sure to remember that if it's made of something like plastic or polypropylene, the katana is probably low quality. Wood Tsubas might be used, but try to avoid these, as they tend to be more frail than others.
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Tips

A handmade sword does not say made in China.
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When you buy the sword make sure you hold it in something as it's bad to carry around weapons.
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For long term protection of the sword material (particularly the non metallic or non-cloth parts) and where use is not expected, 'Renaissance Wax' can be a good protective. However, if in doubt then ask an expert or research it first. Read the instructions before applying the wax! Do not use wax or regular oil to preserve a blade, use a quality sword oil such as pure clove oil. Do not use acids to remove!
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Warnings

Be very careful when you are handling the sword - you may damage it or hurt yourself if you are not handling it properly.
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Do not try to sharpen an antique or high quality blade yourself unless you know what you are doing - you will likely scratch the blade, or even destroy the blade's 'geometry' (edge profile)!
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Remember the good swords are the ones that can hurt you.
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NBTHK provides the best information on sword etiquette and maintenance.
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