How and When to Prune a Cherry Tree

Cherries are the perfect summertime fruit for plucking right off the tree or baking into a sweet cherry pie. But keeping your cherry tree healthy enough to produce fruit each year can seem daunting. Fortunately, it's a relatively simple process when done correctly. In this guide, we'll teach you how to prune young and mature cherry trees so you can promote your tree's growth and overall health each year.

Proper Way to Prune a Cherry Tree

Clean and sharpen your pruning shears with bleach-water and a diamond file.
Prune a new cherry tree one year after planting, starting at the central trunk.
Use shears to head the top of the tree at a 45-degree angle.
Select 4 healthy branches to create a scaffold whorl and shape the tree.
Encourage open airflow by making angled cuts so only the scaffold remains.

Section 1 of 5:

How to Prune a Young Cherry Tree

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1
Wait 1 year for the sapling to grow 30 in (76 cm) before pruning. Ensure the sapling is well over 30 in (76 cm) before cutting it to avoid weakening the tree.^{[1]XResearch source} Pruning should be carried out during the summer, or when rain is unlikely for at least 6 weeks to avoid brown rot.^{[2]XResearch source}
- Some say pruning should be carried out when the tree is dormant, usually during the last weeks of November to mid-December in the Northern Hemisphere.^{[3]XResearch source} However, it’s always best to check the weather for the next rainfall.
- Light formative pruning can be done in the spring for a newly planted cherry plant.^{[4]XTrustworthy SourceRoyal Horticultural SocietyLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plantsGo to source}
- Cherry trees have a low tolerance for wet feet and are susceptible to brown rot, bacterial canker, root and crown rots, and water-borne fungal diseases.^{[5]XResearch source}
- Cherry trees come in two varieties: sweet and acidic. Sweet is best in sunny areas, while acidic is ideal for areas with partial shade.^{[6]XTrustworthy SourceRoyal Horticultural SocietyLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plantsGo to source}
2
Sterilize your pruning shears with a bleach-water solution. Using dirty, dull running shears to make cuts on a tree leaves it prone to disease. To combat this, make a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water. Dip your shears in the solution for 5 minutes and rinse them with hot water. Then, dry them with a clean towel.^{[7]XResearch source}
- Alternatively, use 1 part rubbing alcohol or denatured ethanol with 1 part of water.^{[8]XResearch source}
- Sterilizing your solution reduces the chances of spreading disease amongst healthy trees.
- If possible, sharpen shears with a diamond file to limit damage to the wood on your cherry tree.
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3
Cut 24 to 36 inches (61.0 to 91.4 cm) off the top of the central trunk at a 45-degree angle. Cutting the top of the tree is called heading. It's one of the most common techniques to redirect branching and produce new leaves.^{[9]XResearch source} With your sterilized, sharpened shears, trim the central trunk at a 45-degree angle so it's between 24 to 36 inches (61.0 to 91.4 cm) in height. Heading the tree will reduce the potential for disease and rot. Do this within the first year or two of planting the tree during the summer.^{[10]XResearch source}
- Heading cuts should only be performed on the top of the cherry tree and not near where the cherries eventually fruit, as this can cause reactive growth at the point of the cut.^{[11]XResearch source}
- If you wait until spring, the tree will have developed buds, and the energy that goes into bud formation will be wasted.
- Cutting before the buds have formed allows the tree to use that energy to produce healthy branches.
4
Create a scaffold whorl after the first dormant season with 4 branches. After planting the cherry tree for a year, remove the central lead in the summer to redirect tree growth toward three or four strong scaffolds. A scaffold whorl is a set of 4 lateral branches that extend from the tree to provide structure and balance. Select four to five healthy branches spaced 8 inches (20 cm) apart to form your scaffold. The lowest branch should be 18 inches (45.7 cm) above the ground.^{[12]XResearch source}
- If you attempt to make a scaffold too yearly, you may hurt your cherry tree.
- Opt for branches growing at a 45 to 60-degree angle.
5
Make angled cuts ¹⁄₄ inch (0.6 cm) on each scaffold branch. Ideally, you want to cut each 4 or 5 scaffold branches back to 24 inches (61.0 cm). Using pruners, make an angled cut ¹⁄₄ inch (0.6 cm) above the buds on the branches. New growth will emerge when you make these cuts. Dispose of the cut branches in a waste or compost bin.^{[13]XResearch source}
- Opt for loppers or a tree saw if your branches are too thick for pruners.
Look for two well-spaced, strong secondary branches to keep on each branch you just cut. Trim back the remaining branches at an angle, leaving the two strongest branches on each piece of your scaffold. This will help the tree focus its energy on the branches that remain and produce a greater concentration of fruit.^{[14]XResearch source}
7
Trim back the remaining branches and leave an open center. Make clean, angled cuts against the main tree so only the branches that are part of the scaffold remain. Cherry trees require airflow to grow correctly. Your hand should be able to pass through the tree's center without hitting other branches.^{[15]XResearch source}
- Avoid making cuts that are flush to the main branch. An angled cut helps water and rainfall run off the tree, keeping the cherry tree healthy.
- If a young tree has any broken limbs and crossing branches, remove them.^{[16]XTrustworthy SourceRoyal Horticultural SocietyLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plantsGo to source}
8
Create a second scaffold whorl the following summer. After another season of growth, the tree will be taller with more branches. Assess the tree and determine which branches you want to keep to create a second scaffold that's two feet higher than the first one.^{[17]XResearch source} This should be carried out no later than August.^{[18]XResearch source}
- Choose branches that don't fall directly over the older primary branches. Create a scaffolded shape so that sunlight can reach the tree branches.

Section 2 of 5:

Pruning a Mature Cherry Tree

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1
Remove ⅓ of the previous year's growth to encourage growth. After the third year, the cherry tree has matured, so it no longer requires new scaffolds.^{[19]XResearch source} It's best to trim back vertical branches during the summer since outward-growing branches bear more fruit than the latter. If a new shoot is too long, cut it back by a third or half.^{[20]XResearch source}
- Loppers and pruning saws are suitable pruning tools for trees that are too thick to handle with pruning shears. Be sure your tools are sharp and clean before you use them.
2
Trim any dead or diseased branches from the canopy. Dead or diseased branches can slowly kill your cherry tree, so cut back any dead or dried branches, leaves, and dead fruit using a sharp tool at an angle. Throw the remains in a compost heap or garbage.^{[21]XTrustworthy SourceRoyal Horticultural SocietyLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plantsGo to source}
- Always sterilize your pruning shears before using them, even if you're cutting away a few dead branches.
If you see shoots growing at the base of the cherry tree, cut them. Pull out seedlings so the cherry tree's roots don't have to compete with a new tree.^{[22]XTrustworthy SourceRoyal Horticultural SocietyLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plantsGo to source}
4
Prune any crossing, misplaced, or excess branches each season. Step back to look at your cherry tree and ensure it's growing properly. Prune new branches that aren't attached to the scaffold whorls and branches that cross over one another. Remember, the goal is to create an open shade so sunlight and air can reach the middle of the tree to help it bear fruit.^{[23]XResearch source}
- Branches that don't produce fruit can be cut back at an angle with the leader.
Cherry trees are prone to disease, so removing all the trimmings after you finish pruning, especially if you prune away dead branches, is best. Pick the dead matter off the ground and make sure to dispose of them far away from the tree to prevent disease.^{[24]XResearch source}
6
Remove dead or dying branches during any season. You might come upon a diseased or dying branch during the spring or summer, the least ideal time to prune a cherry tree. If this happens, prune away the branch, whether it’s dormant or not. The disease might spread to other parts of the tree if you don't remove it right away.^{[25]XResearch source}
- If you're working with a diseased tree, clean the pruning tools you use between every cut. Dip them in a bleach solution, wash them with hot water, and dry them off before proceeding.
- After you cut, cover the exposed cut with salve to protect it.

Section 3 of 5:

When to Prune a Cherry Tree

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Prune cherry trees once the summer harvesting season is over. Some argue cherry trees should be pruned in the winter when it's still dormant. This helps redirect the tree's energy into its main branches instead of growing new shoots or flowers that will only be cut off. However, the Royal Horticultural Society recommends pruning after harvesting in late July or August in the Northern Hemisphere. During this season, silver leaf disease and bacterial canker are less prominent.^{[26]XTrustworthy SourceRoyal Horticultural SocietyLeading gardening charity in the U.K. providing resources for identifying, growing and caring for flowers and other plantsGo to source}
- In the summer, remove dead, diseased, crossing, or damaged branches.^{[27]XResearch source}

Section 4 of 5:

Why should you trim a cherry tree?

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Pruning regulates the tree's growth, health, and vigor. Getting into the habit of annual pruning makes things easier for you in the long run while keeping your tree thriving for a long time. Pruning fruit trees maintains their growth and increases the amount of fruit you harvest yearly, improving the fruit size and quality. You'll never return to storebought once you taste your homegrown cherries.^{[28]XResearch source}

Section 5 of 5:

Fruit-thinning Cherry Trees

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Fruit-thinning removes excess fruit to maintain fruit size and quality. In the same way pruning back branches helps the cherry tree grow, fruit trimming is essentially the process of cutting back fruit. The thinning process helps the tree grow adequate size and quality fruit while increasing the plant's ability to form more buds the following season. Use shears and start at one end of a branch, leaving one fruit every 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm).^{[29]XTrustworthy SourcePenn State ExtensionEducational organization dedicated to delivering science-based information to people, businesses, and communitiesGo to source}

Expert Q&A

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Question
Can you cut back a cherry tree?
Lauren Kurtz
Professional Gardener
Lauren Kurtz is a Naturalist and Horticultural Specialist. Lauren has worked for Aurora, Colorado managing the Water-Wise Garden at Aurora Municipal Center for the Water Conservation Department. She earned a BA in Environmental and Sustainability Studies from Western Michigan University in 2014.
Lauren Kurtz
Professional Gardener
Expert Answer
Yes. Cherry trees should be pruned regularly, usually during the winter, to remove dead, diseased or damaged branches and to open up the canopy. Remove about 1/3 of the branches annually or every several years. Rejuvenation pruning can be completed on an old neglected tree.
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When should you prune a cherry tree?
Lauren Kurtz
Professional Gardener
Lauren Kurtz is a Naturalist and Horticultural Specialist. Lauren has worked for Aurora, Colorado managing the Water-Wise Garden at Aurora Municipal Center for the Water Conservation Department. She earned a BA in Environmental and Sustainability Studies from Western Michigan University in 2014.
Lauren Kurtz
Professional Gardener
Expert Answer
Prune in the winter when the tree is dormant. For sweet cherries, some sources recommend pruning lightly in the late summer.
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Can you prune a flowering cherry tree?
Lauren Kurtz
Professional Gardener
Lauren Kurtz is a Naturalist and Horticultural Specialist. Lauren has worked for Aurora, Colorado managing the Water-Wise Garden at Aurora Municipal Center for the Water Conservation Department. She earned a BA in Environmental and Sustainability Studies from Western Michigan University in 2014.
Lauren Kurtz
Professional Gardener
Expert Answer
It is not recommended as the tree will become stressed and fruit set will be dramatically reduced. However, thinning of overcrowded fruit can be beneficial to fruit size. Plan to prune in the winter when the tree is dormant.
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Tips

It is important to understand the type of cherry tree that you have before pruning it. Pruning certain cherry trees at the wrong time of year or cutting away fruit-producing buds can destroy a season's fruit or even permanently damage the trees' fruit-producing abilities. Bing, black, flowering, and Japanese are some of the specific varieties of cherry trees.
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You can seal all pruned branches of your cherry tree with non-asphalt-based pruning paste to prevent germs, bacteria, and fungus from spreading into the branches.
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Warnings

Only prune a cherry tree once it has produced fruit for the season. Otherwise, you may not have cherries until the following year.
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Do not prune cherry trees in damp conditions. Cherry trees are prone to diseases caused by fungal infections. They are more likely to get them when branches are cut and exposed to damp or moist environments.
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