How to Repair a Torn Seam: Hand Sewing and Machine Repair

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Fix any garment with this guide on mending ripped seams

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Repairing the Seam by Hand

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Repairing With a Sewing Machine

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Expert Q&A

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Tips

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Warnings

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Things You'll Need

We all end up with a torn or busted seam sometimes whether you’re rocking fast-fashion or high-end luxury brands. Instead of tossing your fabric items into the landfill, use these beginner-friendly instructions to give your clothing a new life. Read on for our step-by-step guide to fixing your torn seam by hand or with a sewing machine!

Things You Should Know

To fix a torn seam, thread a needle with thread that matches the garment’s color and snip away any loose threads or badly worn fabric around the tear.
Flip your garment inside out and weave your threaded needle in and out of the fabric in a running stitch. Sew in a straight line parallel to the seam.
Secure your seam with a double knot then snip the thread. Gently pull at the newly mended seam to ensure it’s secure.

Method 1

Method 1 of 2:

Repairing the Seam by Hand

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1
Thread a needle with thread that matches the garment. Loop the thread through the eye of your needle. If the edge of the thread is frayed or otherwise impaired, trim it back until the thread is smooth with a blunt edge. If necessary, wet the end of the thread before passing through the head of the needle.^{[1]XResearch source}
- Choose a needle and thread according to the garment you’re repairing. Use a thin needle and thin thread with chiffon, lace, or silk fabric, or a thicker needle and heavier thread with denim or canvas.^{[2]XExpert SourceKpoene Kofi-Bruce
  Couture Bridal DesignerExpert Interview. 28 January 2021.}
- If you don’t have thick thread on hand for heavy-duty fabrics, loop two ends of your thin thread through the eye of the needle instead.^{[3]XResearch source}
Use double the length of the busted seam and add another 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm). While you may wind up with too much thread, it's better to have too much than too little, as you may be able to see where your stitch starts and stops in the middle of the torn area.^{[4]XResearch source}
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3
Practice a running stitch to repair your busted seam. A running stitch is a beginner-friendly option involving a single, straight line. Practice a running stitch on some scrap fabric before mending your garment. Poke your threaded needle up through the fabric, then back down right next to where you first came up. Pull the thread into your first stitch and poke your needle back up. Leave a space of about ⅛ inch (3.2 mm) from the previous stitch and repeat.^{[5]XResearch source}
- For intermediate sewers, try different stitches that work well for varying fabrics and problems. For delicates, you may want to try a simple whip stitch, or for exposed seams that require a discreet repair, you may want to try a backstitch.^{[6]XResearch source}
4
Flip the garment inside out and begin stitching ½ in (1.3 cm) from the seam. Prepare your stitch by knotting the thread to keep it secure. Slip your threaded needle through the fabric about ½ inch (1.3 cm) before the rip in the seam begins. Stitch only through sturdy fabric so the thread is secure.^{[7]XResearch source}
- Stitch in a straight line along the seam to close the hole, staying at least ¼ inch (6 mm) away from the seam.
- Favor a tighter stitch rather than a loose one. Even though a loose stitch is faster and easier, you risk tearing your seam again.
5
Stitch slight past the tear a secure your seam with a double knot. Once you have reached the edge of the torn seam, keep sewing about another ½ inch (1.3 cm). Tie a firm knot in your thread to prevent further fraying and damage. If your knot is too loose, your newly repaired seam may begin to unravel, while a tight knot may cause snagging. Smooth the fabric to ensure there are no wrinkles or problems, then tie a knot to lie flush against the fabric.
- Tying the knot will be easier if you keep the needle intact and pull the needle through the loop you’ve made for your knot. This is especially true if you have only an inch or so of extra thread.
6
Test the result by gently pulling at the seam. Turning the fabric right-side-out, gently pull apart the area you’ve mended, ensuring there are no ripples, remaining holes, or snags. If you find a snag, use a seam ripper to remove your thread and start again.
- While you want to check to ensure your seam is solid, avoid yanking on the seam, as this can damage even the most well-constructed item of clothing.

Method 2

Method 2 of 2:

Repairing With a Sewing Machine

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1
Thread your bobbin and machine with thread that matches the garment. Choose the color that best suits your seam, whether visible or not. Although the color may not seem important initially, a dark or light thread will be immediately visible if your fabric is even a tiny bit sheer.
- Once your bobbin is set, follow your machine's user manual for instructions on how to thread the needle.
2
Use the running stitch setting on your sewing machine. New and old sewing machines come with a wide array of settings, ranging from the length of a stitch to the type of stitch being used. A running stitch remains to be a handy, simple way to repair torn or busted seams. However, you can consult your machine’s manufacturer’s booklet or instruction manual to determine which setting is best for your fabric.
- For knits or elastic waistbands, opt for a stretch stitch which can move with stretchy fabric materials.^{[8]XResearch source}
- For tears in difficult places, like the armhole (also known as the armscye), use a triple straight stitch.^{[9]XResearch source}
It may help to use sewing pins or clips to temporarily hold seams together before stitching. Try forked pins to be able to see your pin on both sides of the seam, or small applique pins for curved seams that require many pins to hold their shape.^{[10]XResearch source}
4
Place the fabric under the foot so the needle is ½ in (1.3 cm) from the tear. Fold the fabric in half so the machine can stitch both layers of the fabric together. If possible, line the existing thread up with the machine’s needle to keep the appearance of a uniform seam.
- Aim to keep your stitch about ⅛ inch (3.2 mm) from the seam (making sure you're only sewing through intact, sturdy fabric).
- Use the guidelines on your machine's plate to help you position the fabric in line with the needle.
5
Slowly feed your fabric through the machine. Gently press down on the machine’s pedal, feeding your fabric through the machine carefully. Again, though you may think it is best to get the job done quickly, the needle could snag on the fabric if it's passed through too quickly. Take your time.
- Remove your pins as you go, ensuring they do not pass beneath the machine’s needle. Although it could skip over the pin, you risk breaking the needle when it hits the pin.
6
Run back over the stitch's final ½ inch (1.3 cm). Once you have reached the end of the tear, pause the needle and put the machine in reverse. Go back over your fabric to close the thread loop. This process is also referred to as backstitching.^{[11]XResearch source} Once you have done that, lift the foot and remove the fabric.
- ½ an inch (1.3 cm) is more than enough space. Going over any more of the fabric may accidentally rip up your repaired stitches.
Snip the thread from the bobbin and needle, and trim any excess fabric or thread from the newly mended area. If there are frayed edges, be sure to trim those, too, as leaving a frayed edge behind could result in additional fraying.

Expert Q&A

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Question
How do you sew French seams?
Kpoene Kofi-Bruce
Couture Bridal Designer
Kpoene Kofi-Bruce is a tailor, couture wedding gown designer, and the Creative Director of Mignonette Bridal and Ette the Wedding Tailor in Chicago, Illinois. With nearly two decades of experience as a wedding gown designer, small business owner, and vintage sewing enthusiast, Kpoene specializes in wedding gown design and the social history of wedding dresses. She received a BA in Creative Writing from Middlebury College and studied the business of fashion at the Fashion Institute of Technology. She is also a graduate of the Goldman Sachs 10KSB program and the Chicago Fashion Incubator and has written about wedding fashion for Jezebel, Catalyst, the Sun Times, and XO Jane.
Kpoene Kofi-Bruce
Couture Bridal Designer
Expert Answer
You will need the following items iron, a pair of small very sharp scissors, pins, and a cutting surface. The first step would be to place your fabric with the wrong sides facing each other you are sewing your first seam on the outside of the garment. Sew your seams together as usual. Then take your scissors and cut away the seam allowance, leaving about ⅛” of the material left. Next, fold your fabric together at the seam so that what you just sewed is sandwiched between the two layers of fabric. (your right sides should be together now). Press with the iron along that seam line. Pin if needed to keep the seam nice and straight. Next, sew along that seam line again, using your normal seam allowance. When you are done, press along the seam with the iron. This is a difficult process, therefore I recommend practicing before you cut your actual fabric.
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What should I do if I don't have any thread and needle? Can I use hot glue?
Heather Kenyon-Haff
Top Answerer
Hot glue may or may not work, depending on the hot glue and fabric. It may discolor the fabric. It will leave a glue residue that may be hard, sharp or uncomfortable against the skin. It also may be a temporary fix.
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How do I repair a large hole?
Community Answer
Repairing a large hole requires the same process as a small one, but may require more finesse. Instead of hand-stitching, use a sewing machine to repair a large hole, as the stitches on a sewing machine will be easier to keep uniform and small. To use a machine, turn your fabric inside-out, align the torn area, and run your sewing needle over the hole. Finish up by going back over the final 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) of the mend to close the stitch.
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Tips

For novices, a hand stitch may be the faster, easier route to take when considering a repair.
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As you repair, try to determine the root cause of the tear; for instance, if the tear was caused by being pulled too tight, you can let the seam out a little bit as you repair to prevent a recurrence.
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If you are unfamiliar with a sewing machine, try a few practice rounds on a scrap piece of fabric before diving into a seam repair.
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Tips from our Readers

The advice in this section is based on the lived experiences of How.com.vn readers like you. If you have a helpful tip you’d like to share on How.com.vn, please submit it in the field below.

A backstitch is far stronger than a running stitch. Aim for small stitches that go through all layers of the fabric. If your fabric is slipper or the tear is long, try pinning, tacking, or basting the seams together. Doing so creates a temporary running stitch that you can pull out after completing the repair. Also, when hand-sewing, try to limit your thread to the length of your forearm. This will help make stitching easier and you won't have to wrangle meters of knotty thread.
If you're new to sewing, learn with a plastic lattice with small to medium holes or a plastic canvas, a ball of yarn, and a yarn sewing needle. It's a great way to try out new stitches and practice for fun.

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Warnings

If the seam is torn and thoroughly shredded, you may need to visit a seamstress for a patch or repair.
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If possible, avoid quick fixes such as staples and loose stitches. Both can cause damage to the fabric.
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Read your instruction manual before using a larger or smaller needle with your sewing machine; some machines require certain brands and installation techniques.
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