How to Keep a Pair of Pet Rats

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1Choosing 2 Rats

2Introducing Unacquainted Rats

3Setting up Their Habitat

4Caring for Your Rats

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Rats can make great pets, but they’re even better when you get a pair. Rats are naturally social, so it’s actually advisable to adopt and keep them in pairs or small groups. This means that there isn’t anything extra you need to do if you adopt 2 rats who were raised together at the same time. Just care for them like any other rat. If you are introducing a new rat to a home that already has a rat, though, you will have to go through a longer introduction process to keep both rats safe and to help them get to know one another.

Steps

Part 1

Part 1 of 4:

Choosing 2 Rats

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   Adopt a pair from the same litter if possible. If you are adopting your rats at the same time, try to adopt rats that have been raised together since they were very young. Adopting from the same litter is ideal, but any pair of rats that have been raised together will work. These rats are more likely to naturally get along without having to go through an introduction period.

   • Rats are very social animals. They need a friend or two to stay happy and healthy. That’s why it’s so important to adopt in pairs.
   • Adopting rats that were raised together also eliminates the need for a quarantine period.
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   Keep same-sex pairs of rats. Unless you are looking to breed your rats, you will want a pair of the same sex to avoid a rat pregnancy. If you don’t have other rats in your home already, look for a same-sex pair from a breeder. If you already have a rat at home, look for a rat the same sex as your current pet.

   • Male rats tend to enjoy human interaction more than females. Males also tend to need more space and can be more aggressive, though not usually to a problematic level.
   • Females are smaller and tend to live longer. Females also tend to be more active, and are generally more prone to chewing through things like plastic cage bases or toys.
   • If you are unsure about the sex of your rats, take them to a small animal vet to get confirmation. If it turns out you have one male and one female, separate them as rats can breed very quickly. Once they are separated, you can talk to your vet about getting them spayed and neutered so that they can cohabitate without breeding.
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   Opt for baby rats if you want a slow but strong bonding process. Baby rats aren’t likely to bond you with quickly, but you control their socialization. This means that you will eventually form a strong bond with them.

   • Babies are cute, but it’s important to remember that they are babies. They will be active and require more attention than adults.
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   Choose adult rats if you want an animal that's already socialized. Properly socialized adults will bond with you faster, but you cannot control their socialization. That means that you don’t know if you’re getting a properly socialized rat that is willing to bond.

   • Adult rats from major pet stores are more likely to have socialization problems than adult rats from an ethical breeder. If you notice a rat at a pet store is vocalizing a lot, has puffed out hair, or slapping their tail, these could be signs of social distress.
   • You can pair rats of any age so long as they are properly socialized. Old rats will get along well with young rats and vice versa.
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Part 2

Part 2 of 4:

Introducing Unacquainted Rats

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   Quarantine the rats for 2-3 days prior to introductions to check for illness. Before you introduce rats from different litters to each other, you should keep them in separate cages and separate rooms for the first few days in your home. This gives you time to see if either rat is sick. If they are, seek veterinary treatment before introducing them to another rat. Signs of illness can include:

   • Oily or matted coat
   • Not eating or drinking
   • Rapid weight gain or loss
   • Runny stool
   • Sneezing
   • Sunken or dull eyes
   • Discharge from the eyes or nose
2. 
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   Place them in separate cages next to one another for 1-2 days. When you’re introducing 2 rats that aren’t already acquainted, the first step is to let them see each other. Put them in separate cages that sit directly next to one another. Give your rats a day or two to adjust to the sight and smell of a new rat.

   • You can even take something from each rat cage and put it in the other to help acquaint your rats with their new friend’s smell.
   • You could also put each rat in the other’s cage for a short period of time. Just be sure to swap cages at the same time. This prevents each rat from getting aggressive regarding the newcomer in their territory.
   • If they try to fight through their cages, that may be a sign it's not a good idea to let them meet.
3. 
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   Let them meet on neutral ground for 10 minutes. When you first introduce your 2 rats, it should be outside of their separate cages in an area that doesn’t smell like either of them. Bathtubs work well, as they are large and enclosed. Keep the first introduction short, even if it’s going well. Give your rats 5-10 minutes to get to know one another, then return them to their respective homes.

   • Be sure to have a towel on hand should things get too aggressive. Some physical shows of force are normal, but if one rat is hostile toward the other, throw a towel over it to break up the fight and return it to its cage.
   • Repeat this process a few times, leaving the rats together longer each time. By the third to fifth meeting, you should be able to leave them together for hours. Just be sure to provide food, water, and a towel or blanket for them to sleep in.
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   Give them time together outside of their cages for a few days. If introductions have gone well, allow your rats to start playing together when they are out of their cage. Rats should have designated out-of-cage time every day. Let your rats take their play time together.

   • If you have a resident rat, be sure to thoroughly clean their out-of-cage dishes, toys, hammocks, blankets, and other possessions that may have their smell. This will help keep either rat from getting territorial.
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   Bring them together in a clean cage once they are accustomed to one another. After a few days of shared out-of-cage time, your rats should be ready to move in together. If you are moving them into a cage that has previously been occupied by either rat, be sure to clean it thoroughly to remove any lingering scent.

   • Try to rearrange the interior of the cage by moving levels and changing bowl locations, too. This way, each rat thinks of the cage as a new environment.
   • You will still want to be close by for a couple days to check for any fighting. As a general rule, as long as no blood is drawn, things are going well.
   • If things get too aggressive, though, break up the fight and move the rats back to separate cages for up to an hour before trying to introduce them again.
   • Keep in mind 2 males may become territorial if they share a cage. It may be better to leave your rats in two separate cages and let them play together occasionally if they seem social.
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Part 3

Part 3 of 4:

Setting up Their Habitat

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   Get the largest cage you can afford. The minimum amount of cage space you need for a pair of rats is 50 centimetres (20 in) x 80 centimetres (31 in) and at least 50 centimetres (20 in) tall. The more cage space you can get for your rats, though, the better. Look for a cage with wire sides and top, and a solid floor to prevent your rats’ feet from getting stuck.

   • A guinea pig cage or a rabbit cage provides ample space for rat pairs. Even if you have to keep your rats separated because you accidentally got opposite genders, you should still provide them with a cage of this size if possible.
   • Aquarium-style tanks and cages aren’t suitable for rats because they don’t offer enough ventilation.
2. 
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   Set your cage up in a safe but social area. Your rats' cage should be kept out of direct sunlight and drafts, and in an area where other household pets can’t rattle the cage or scare the rats. Since rats are social and often bond with their humans, though, it’s a good idea to keep their cage in an area where they will be able to see you when you’re home.

   • Rats also need complete dark to sleep at night, so cages should be kept in an area that allows for this.
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   Get a nest for each rat. Your rats may choose to sleep together, but it’s important each one has a nest of their own. Rats enjoy nesting boxes, igloos, grass nests, and hammocks. These don’t have to be placed far apart, but each rat should have its own space to nest should it choose to do so.
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   Equip your rats with plenty of toys. Your rats will need toys that challenge them both physically and mentally. Exercise wheels, tubes, ladders, and branches will allow your rats to run, climb, and play throughout the day. Make sure that you have multiple toys in the cage so that both your rats can play.

   • You don’t necessarily need 2 of each toy, but you should have multiple toys so that each rat can entertain itself. For example, a pair of rats may enjoy a setup with a wheel, a ladder, and a few branches for climbing.
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Part 4

Part 4 of 4:

Caring for Your Rats

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   Make sure ample food and water is available. Your rats should always have access to fresh, clean water. Additionally, you need to make sure to put out enough food for both rats. Each rat should get a small bowl’s worth of commercial lab blocks, which are kind of like large pellets. Depending on your species of rat, they may eat between 12 grams (0.42 oz) and 20 grams (0.71 oz) of dry mix a day. In addition, each rat should get about half a handful of fresh fruits and/or vegetables a day.

   • Watch your rats closely to make sure one is not eating the food for both rats. This could lead to problems being overweight for the offending rat, and problems being underweight for the rat not getting the food.
2. 
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   Give them out-of-cage time together every day. In addition to in-cage play, your rats need at least 1 hour of supervised out-of-cage time every day. You can choose to get a small pet playpen for this, or have them take play time in a closed, rat-proofed room. Allow them to play together when possible so that they can continue to socialize outside of their cages.

   • You need to watch your rats during play time. Even if you aren’t directly interacting with them, you need to supervise them to make sure they do not get injured.
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   Handle each rat individually for at least 10 minutes several times a day. Rats can become very attached to their humans, which is why it’s important they get one-on-one time with you every day. You can have them out with you together for longer periods, but each rat should get at least 10 minutes of direct, individual bonding time with you at least 3-4 times throughout the day. This should be in addition to play time.

   • When you’re handling your rats, never pick them up by the tail. This area is very delicate and can actually come off. Instead, gently scoop them underneath their chest with one hand, and support their rear with the other.
4. 
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   Clean their cage at least once a week. Remove droppings daily and wash and disinfect your rats' cage 1-2 times a week. To do this, remove your rats and put them in a safe location with access to fresh food and water. Then remove all toys and dishes from the cage, and discard or compost any old litter. To clean the cage:

   • Wash the cage, toys, and dishes with a disinfecting hand soap or dish soap and warm water. Be sure to get every part of the cage, and soak any stuck litter or droppings until they come loose.
   • Rinse and towel dry the cage, toys, and dishes.
   • Disinfect all the cage surfaces, toys, and dishes using a pet-safe disinfecting agent. These are available from a number of pet stores. Let the disinfectant sit for 15 minutes before rinsing it off thoroughly with warm water.
   • Allow the cage to air dry completely before placing in new litter and replacing the toys, dishes, and your rats.
5. 
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   Take your rats in for a semi-annual vet examination. As part of an overall wellness program, your rats should go in to see a vet 1-2 times a year. Ideally, they should have an appointment every 6 months. Be sure to call a new vet in advance to make sure they accept small and exotic pets, as not all vets treat rats.

   • During a general health check, your vet will check your rats' weight and teeth and run a fecal test to make sure they are both healthy.
   • Additionally, if one or both of your rats start exhibiting symptoms of illness including loose droppings, discolored gums, rapid weight loss, sneezing or nasal discharge, or loss of fur, make an emergency appointment with your vet as soon as possible.
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Expert Q&A

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• Question

  What if my male rats are not brothers?

  

  Brian Starr
  Rat Specialist & Breeder

  Brian Starr is a Rat Specialist and Breeder and the Owner of OC Dumbos out of Central Florida. As America’s only breeder of pet Roof Rats, Brian and OC Dumbos specialize in rat breeding, training, and care. Years of experience and several generations of careful breeding have allowed Brian and OC Dumbos to create a line of tame Roof Rats, bred to make friendly, fun pets. In addition to offering rat accessories and training resources, OC Dumbos also offers free Roof Rat adoptions.

  

  Brian Starr

  Rat Specialist & Breeder

  Expert Answer

  I don't like having just one cage, because male rats tend to be pretty territorial. Introduce them slowly and look for social behavior. If they try and fight through their cages when you put their cages next to each other, don't try and make them live together.

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• Question

  My rats seemed to get along but now they're fighting! What do I do?

  

  Brian Starr
  Rat Specialist & Breeder

  Brian Starr is a Rat Specialist and Breeder and the Owner of OC Dumbos out of Central Florida. As America’s only breeder of pet Roof Rats, Brian and OC Dumbos specialize in rat breeding, training, and care. Years of experience and several generations of careful breeding have allowed Brian and OC Dumbos to create a line of tame Roof Rats, bred to make friendly, fun pets. In addition to offering rat accessories and training resources, OC Dumbos also offers free Roof Rat adoptions.

  

  Brian Starr

  Rat Specialist & Breeder

  Expert Answer

  It's normal to see a little bit of fighting between cage mates. Sometimes it's just play, and sometimes they're trying to establish dominance. But if you see blood being drawn, you have to separate those rats right away. They can hurt each other pretty quickly, especially the ears and tail. If that happens, it's a sign those rats need to live alone.

  Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
  Thank you for your feedback.
  If How.com.vn has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission.Support How.com.vn

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Tips

• Rats that were raised as part of the same litter or that lived together prior to you getting them do not need to be introduced. They can simply be put in the same cage.
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• In addition to fruits and vegetables, a piece of a hard dog biscuit or a branch from a fruit-bearing tree can make a great weekly treat that helps keep your rats' teeth healthy.
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• Invest in some quality ceramic food dishes instead of plastic ones. They cost more upfront but are easier to keep clean and chew-resistant, so you won't have to replace them as often.
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Warnings

• Rats generally live about 3-5 years depending on the species. Be sure you are prepared for the emotional toll of a short-lived pet before you choose to adopt rats.
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