How to Ensure Your Pet Fish Are Healthy

Fish seem like the easiest pets to keep, since they don't have all the same requirements as other different pets. However, many people do not follow the basics of keeping fish, by only providing water and some flaked food once in a while. It's important to ensure your fish are healthy so they can last longer and be great pets for a longer period of time.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Before Getting Fish

You don't want to bother your fish by constantly moving around and adding surroundings. For most tanks, a filter, heater, air pump, fake/real plants, substrate, and hiding places are enough. Each species has its own preferences, though, so research. Saltwater and brackish tanks are also different from freshwater.
2
Cycle your tank. Many pet owners do not realize that just running the tank's pump and filter for a few day (as recommended by many pet stores) is not enough. Cycling is where beneficial bacteria levels are slowly increased by feeding the bacteria ammonia. Ammonia turns to nitrite, which turns to nitrate. The bacteria will make sure that ammonia from rotting food and waste in the tank is quickly neutralized into nitrate, which is less harmful and can be removed with weekly/monthly water changes.
- Good bacteria in an aquarium are the ones that form a biological filter. Bacteria break down ammonia and nitrites so that the water is better for the fish. Without good bacteria most life would not exist. The "bad" bacteria are normally also present but do not cause problems until fish are injured, stressed by dirty water, or suffering from another disease.
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General fish food like "tropical" or "freshwater" won't cut it. Specific species of fish have their own diet, and flakes tend to be of lower quality. Seek out higher quality food (research for your type of fish). Treats, like with other pets, are important too. Some fish enjoy meat, some insects, and some bits of vegetable.
4
Prepare a first-aid kit for your fish. Especially for saltwater, sensitive, or expensive fish -- you want to be prepared when some disease hits. Basics include aquarium salt (not the same as marine salt), fungicides, and not just general purpose infection remedies, but different antibiotics for different severity of infections, and fin repair necessities.
- It's important to note, however, that some invertebrates (worms) will die in the presence of certain medications.
This is optional for some but a necessity for others, as this tank can be a breeding tank or a quarantine tank. For people who are serious about breeding, this is needed, cycled and all to protect eggs and fry (baby fish). Many people also use this to quarantine sick fish so they do not infect the rest of the tank. This extra tank needs to be cycled, have a filter, heater (depending on species) and air pump. However, it is usually left bare bottom (no substrates like sand or gravel) and with barely any decorations.
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Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Buying and Preparing the Fish For Its Home

1
Choose an already healthy fish. Look for vibrant colors, alertness, no white skin patches, torn fins, overly red gills, and no swollen body (for pregnant fish, this may be hard to differentiate). Pay attention to where the fish is housed. Is it in a cramped space with 15 other fish, or does it have space to swim and be healthy? Is there an overgrowth of algae? Is it kept in a tiny bowl/cup? Consider the surrounding tanks and fish in the shop, not just the fish in question.
- Watch out for fin infection by comparing fish. This infection often begins with easily unnoticed red streaks in a fin(s) -- soon followed by abnormal lightening of edge colors, perhaps still not noticed at a glance. Then a fraying and rotting of the fin membrane and edges occurs. This infection can lead to totally disabling the fin, spreading to the body and leading to death.^{[1]XResearch source}
If you want a tropical fish but your tank is more like for cold water, do not just say "It's fine" and buy the fish anyway. Your tank needs to be specific to the fish's needs. Some fish prefer sand over gravel, some need hiding spaces... If you already have fish or animals in your tank, will they get along with the fish you're going to buy? Some fish fight ferociously and can rip each other apart. Choose wisely and not out of impulse; you can always come back to the pet store after researching and modifying your tank.
3
Acclimate the fish. When you take your new friend home, it's tempting to immediately dump the fish into your newly cycled, already furnished tank. However, even though you think your fish is suffering in that tiny plastic bag, it will suffer more if you just throw it in the tank. Oftentimes, your tank water temperature is very different from the one the fish is in. The salinity (in the case of salt and brackish water) and water parameters may be different. Acclimating means getting your fish used to the changes so it won't go into shock.
- Float the bag in your tank for fifteen minutes for the temperature in the bag to slowly match the tank.
- Dump out 25% of the water in the bag and add the same volume of tank water. Wait for five minutes.
- Take out 25% again and put in the same volume of tank water. Wait for five more minutes. Then, scoop out your fish carefully (but not the water in the bag) and quickly place it in your tank.
- Some people also keep the new fish in a quarantine tank for the first weeks or so to make sure they don't have diseases. This is optional, but a good option for those who aren't willing to risk infecting their entire 300 gallon tank.
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Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Maintaining the Tank and Your Fish

1
Change part of the water regularly. Depending on the size of the tank, some people change weekly and some monthly. Either way, changing water gets rid of nitrates, which in high levels can harm fish and good bacteria. 25% water volume is what most people change out. Topping off the tank with new water can be done whenever necessary (saltwater tanks should top off with freshwater most often, as salt does not evaporate).
- Before adding new water, it should be set out in room temperature for at least 24 hours. This won't evaporate all chlorine, and definitely won't change chloramines and heavy metals, but will get rid of some dissolved gases. Make sure you add a water conditioner and anything else necessary for your type of tank.
For all animals (and plants if you want) count them carefully. Especially in a large tank with many fish, one dead or missing fish can go unnoticed until the owner investigates to find out the cause of an ammonia spike when testing the water. Also, check out the condition of all your fish. If you see one with sickness, quarantine it so you won't infect any more fish. Infections and sicknesses are usually easily treatable if you get to them quickly (you'll be quick if you have prepared your first-aid kit!).
3
Clean the tank. A lot of people don't clean their tanks for some time, and that's usually okay. Twice a year cleaning is common. For small tanks, though, it might get dirty easily. Algae can be left on the glass unless it is overgrown/blocking out light or your view.
- Never use bleach or soap to clean the tank. Use cleaning tools you have set aside for fish purposes only.
A handful of fish food (unless you have a pond or a really big tank) is way too much and wasteful. For most fish, a pinch of food two times a day is enough. To prevent constipation, skipping a feeding day is fine. However, skipping more than a few days is not okay, so you'll need a vacation block, automatic feeder, or someone else to feed for you.
5
Test water parameters weekly or when you suspect a problem. Ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite are important to test for. Write down your findings so that you have a record for future reference. Ammonia and nitrites are very important to monitor; fish can stand higher levels of nitrates. Near 0 ppm of ammonia and nitrites are recommended, and no more than 20 ppm of nitrates. Fish can develop open sores, red gills, and have trouble breathing in water with high levels of these.
- Saltwater tanks, especially those with corals and live rocks, should be tested more frequently -- including tests for pH and salinity.
Many fish are curious and will soon get to know your face and will swim towards you. Some pet owners know their fish well enough that the fish will enjoy being petted, going toward the tail, if you're careful about rubbing off their slime coat.
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Community Q&A

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Question
Can 3 minnows live in a large pickle jar with clean water, a stick and gravel from outside? Also, can I have a dirt bottom without mud water?
Rashida Udaipurwala
Community Answer
I would not recommend to let 3 minnows live in a pickle jar because the pickle jar is way too small for 3 minnows. A stick from outside is just another way for your fishes to get sick, which is the total opposite of what you want to do. Same for the gravel, if your fish start to peck on it then they can get sick and may get diseases. The chances are high that your fish will die if not treated with proper care and attention. I would recommend buying a fishbowl. Again, any sort of dirt or gravel or any outdoor items are just going to harm your fish and they will most likely not survive.
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Tips

Algae balls and nice fish homes will add beauty to the tank and provide the fish with some fun.
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Real driftwood (ones collected from outside are not recommended) is an authentic addition that bottom feeders will love.
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A thin layer of sand for freshwater bottom feeders like loaches will be cleaned by the fish, so you won't have to clean it (you may have to replace it once in a while).
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Warnings

Don't leave your aquarium light on around the clock. Plants need darkness too, and you'll end up getting an algae overgrowth.
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Do not add tap water into the tank and then add water conditioner. You run the risk of killing off the delicate beneficial bacteria and harming some sensitive fish. Always dechlorinate the water in a separate container.
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If your pH is off by enough to upset your tank (saltwater especially), you have to slowly change the pH over a few days.
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Do not overstock fish or you will overwhelm the good bacteria and your tank cycle. Research thoroughly before adding fish.
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Sudden water temperature or parameter changes will not only shock your fish, but the good bacteria. When preparing a tank, be careful about not killing off your bacteria.
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While usually harmless, driftwood can leach tannins into the water and make it yellowish. Soak or boil the wood before use.
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Don't put your tank near a sunny window; algae will grow and it'll be "impossible" to maintain the temperature of the water.
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Do not overfeed your fish as it can cause death! Fish cannot hold too much food in their stomach, as they are very small.
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