How to Apply Semi-Permanent Hair Color

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A guide to using and caring for semi-permanent dye

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Choosing Your Dye

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Dyeing Your Hair

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Maintenance

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Video

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Expert Q&A

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Tips

Semi-permanent hair dyes are a significantly less harsh alternative to traditional dyes that won’t damage your hair. Instead of penetrating the core of the hair, semi-permanent coat the hair's surface and wash out over time. In addition to being safer and easier to use, semi-permanent dyes also come in a greater variety of bright, bold colors. If you’re interested in being a little more adventurous with your look, semi-permanent hair dye may be right for you.^{[1]XResearch source}^{[2]XResearch source}

Things You Should Know

Apply a small dap of the dye on your skin and wait 48 hours to make sure it doesn’t irritate you. Then, wash and dry your hair.
Put on clothes you don’t mind getting stained and apply petroleum jelly along your hairline. Then, apply the dye with gloved hands or with a tint brush.
Leave the dye on for 30 minutes to 1 hour then rinse and wash it with color care shampoo.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Choosing Your Dye

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There are many popular brands and hundreds of different colors to choose from. Semi-permanent dyes can be found in a variety of places, ranging from grocery stores to specialized fashion shops, with the biggest selection at beauty supply stores. Pick the color that’s your favorite, matches your wardrobe best, and/or is most flattering for your eye color and skin tone. Semi-permanent dyes work on all hair colors, but show up brightest on light hair. On very dark hair, though, they will appear as a very subtle sheen.
Bleaching hair will make the color turn out brighter on all hair types.^{[3]XExpert SourceKaren Leight
Professional Hair StylistExpert Interview. 13 November 2020.} If you want intense, bright colors and you have darker hair, you will need to bleach it. Just keep in mind that bleaching may damage your hair.^{[4]XExpert SourceKaren Leight
Professional Hair StylistExpert Interview. 13 November 2020.}
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Perform a patch test. A patch test is an easy way to check for allergens at home. This step is very important, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you go straight to dyeing your whole head without checking, you may end up with an itchy scalp or permanent hair loss.
- Dab a small amount of dye onto a cotton adhesive pad and place it somewhere on your skin that isn’t too sensitive or typically exposed like your upper back.
- Leave the patch on for however long you plan on leaving the dye in your hair (usually an hour).
- Remove the patch and rinse the dye from your skin.
- Wait another 48 hours before dyeing your hair.
- Do not use this dye if your skin experiences itching, redness, or swelling. If your skin starts itching while the patch is still on, remove it immediately and scrub away the dye with soap and water.^{[5]XTrustworthy SourceMayo ClinicEducational website from one of the world's leading hospitalsGo to source}
Do a strand test. Select a small strand of hair that is not on the surface of your hairdo. Dye this strand following the instructions on the bottle.^{[6]XResearch source} This step can be skipped if you don’t care about the exact shade of your new hair color. If you’ve never bleached your hair before, you may want to do a strand test with both your bleaching method and then with the dye.

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Dyeing Your Hair

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Normally you should avoid using a blow dryer, as it can dry out and damage your hair. However, the drier your hair, the better your dye will soak in. Don’t condition your hair until after the dye has been applied and rinsed out.
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Protect your skin and clothes. While semi-permanent dyes eventually wash out of hair, they can be fairly difficult to remove from other materials like most fabrics. Semi-permanent dye is usually easy to remove from skin with a good scrubbing, but the process may take a few days. It's less work to prevent making a mess than cleaning it up later.
- Wear some clothes that you don't mind staining.
- Put a towel down on the floor in the area where you’re working.
- Wear exam gloves.
- Place a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the skin along your hairline.
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Figure out color placement. You can dye all of your hair the same shade or you can get more creative. Here are a few options to consider:
- Dye only your highlights. Many people with dark hair go for this look with bright colors.
- Dye just the ends. This is called the "dip dye" look, since it seems like the hair has been dipped in paint. Section off your hair with plastic clips and you can use multiple colors for this method.
- Two colors from the same brand can be mixed. You can dye your tips one color, the hair near your roots another, and mix the two in the middle for an “ombré” look.
- Try a wild, multi-colored look or make a pattern by keeping certain sections of your hair un-dyed. Put a little conditioner on the parts of your hair that you want protected.
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Apply the hair dye. Place a thick amount of hair dye wherever you want it. The best way to do this varies based on your style:
- If you’re dyeing a large area or your whole head, the best way to do this is by massaging the dye in by hand. Grab a palm full of dye and work it into your hair as if you were shampooing. If your hair is long, you will need to do this a few times with more dye to spread the color evenly throughout. You can also try dyeing thicker hair in sections.
- If you’re dyeing a smaller section, use a special tools called a tint brushes. Dip the brush into the dye and "paint" your hair. This will help you to both control where the color goes and make sure all your hair is coated. Go over each section a few times to make sure the dye is even.
How long you should leave it in for will vary by brand, but 30 minutes to an hour is typical. Unlike permanent dyes, which contain harsh chemicals that can damage your hair and skin, there is usually no "too long" with semi-permanent colors. If you want to leave your work area while the dye sets, put your hair in a shower cap to keep from making a mess.
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Rinse out the dye. Rinsing in the sink will reduce the chance of dyeing your skin but may be inconvenient. Rinsing in the shower is usually fine, even with dark colors.
- Soak your hair thoroughly with running water. This is more important if you've left the dye in so long that it has dried out.
- Gently wash your hair with color care shampoo. Keeping your hair moisturized will help maintain the color.
- Keep rinsing your hair until the water starts running clear. If you leave any dye in, you will end up staining anything your hair touches.
- Apply conditioner. This will also help keep your hair moist.
- Allow your hair to air dry. Blow drying will dry out your hair too much and make your new color fade faster.

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Maintaining Your New Look

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Semi-permanent dye will fade more each time you wash your hair.^{[7]XExpert SourceKaren Leight
Professional Hair StylistExpert Interview. 13 November 2020.} To make the color last longer, wash your hair as infrequently as you can get away with. The thicker and less oily your hair, the less often you need to wash it.^{[8]XResearch source}
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Use color-protecting shampoo.^{[9]XExpert SourceKaren Leight
Professional Hair StylistExpert Interview. 13 November 2020.} When you do wash your hair, be sure to use a shampoo that will minimize fade. Most major shampoo brands have at least one color-protecting product. If you have trouble finding one at the drugstore, try checking a specialty beauty supply shop.
- Sulfate-free shampoos that are complementary to your color are your best bet. For instance, a purple shampoo is great for blondes and silvers.
Dry hair is more prone to fading. Use conditioner, whether rinse-out or leave-in. If you have very textured, coily type hair, try using shea butter.
The nature of semi-permanent hair color is that it doesn’t last forever. Dye your hair using the same steps above once it fades to a color you aren’t quite happy with. You could also try a different color. If you bleached your hair before, don’t bleach it again unless your roots have grown out.

Expert Q&A

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Question
Can you put a semi-permanent color on wet hair?
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Expert Answer
You should apply a semi-permanent color to clean, damp hair. Make sure it has been thoroughly towel-dried. If it is too wet it won't properly absorb the color.
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Question
What is the difference between semi- and demi-permanent hair color?
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Expert Answer
Semi-permanent color is a stain that begins to fade with the first shampoo. Demi-permanent is similar to a very mild form of permanent color as it chemically deposits color molecules under the cuticle for a longer-lasting effect.
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Question
Do you dye your hair when it's wet or dry?
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Laura Martin is a Licensed Cosmetologist in Georgia. She has been a hair stylist since 2007 and a cosmetology teacher since 2013.
Laura Martin
Licensed Cosmetologist
Expert Answer
It depends on the type of color you are applying. Permanent color should be applied to dry hair. Semi-permanent color will be absorbed the best on freshly-washed and toweled-dry hair.
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Tips

It’s very important to clean up after yourself. The dye won’t permanently color your hair but it has the potential to ruin clothing, carpets, and furniture.
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Not all semi-permanent dyes are identical. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions on the bottle or box very carefully before you begin.
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Tips from our Readers

The advice in this section is based on the lived experiences of How.com.vn readers like you. If you have a helpful tip you’d like to share on How.com.vn, please submit it in the field below.

It's important to do the patch test to make sure you're not allergic to the hair dye and that your hair reacts in the way you want it to. If you skip this test, you may experience itching and potential hair damage.
Color build-up can occur on the old hair. If possible, leave the dye on the virgin (undyed) hair for the full processing time, and "refresh" pre-dyed hair with only a few minutes of processing time.
If you have longer hair (past your waist), you may need two or more boxes of dye. The same can apply if you have thicker than average hair.

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