How to Define Curly Hair

If you have curly hair, it might become a struggle at times to take care of your hair and define your curls on a regular basis. As mainstream hair care methods and products might prove useless for your frizzy, flyaway curls, it is natural to get frustrated. However, there are some tips and techniques you can follow, such as using sulfate-free shampoos, applying generous amounts of conditioner and other moisturizing products, and using different shaping methods, in order to avoid frizzing and dry ends and achieve perfectly defined curls regularly.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Washing Your Hair and Applying Products

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Also called the Curly Girl Method, omitting the shampoo and washing the hair with only conditioner works best for overly dry hair, as shampoo might do more harm than good.^{[1]XResearch source}
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Use a sulfate-free shampoo if you want to use one. If you do choose to use shampoo, it is very important that you use a gentle one that does not contain sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) which can be too harsh and damaging for curly hair and can cause frizz.^{[2]XResearch source} Choose a shampoo that contains natural oils like grape-seed or sage oil, which will clarify and maintain moisture in the hair.
- Apply a little bit of shampoo on the top of your head and massage it onto your scalp. Focus on the roots since they form the most oily part of your hair. Let it rinse towards the ends of your curls.
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3
Condition your hair after shampooing. Be generous with the amount of conditioner you use. Apply it on the top of your head, and massage it onto your scalp, just like you did with shampoo if you used one.
- Concentrate the conditioner towards the ends of your curls. This way, your hair won’t lose its natural oils and get dry.^{[3]XResearch source}
- Make sure to use a conditioner designed for dry and damaged hair, even if the label does not specifically say “for curly hair.”
Make sure to do so gently and when your hair has a good amount of conditioner in it.^{[4]XResearch source} For a little added moisture try adding honey to your conditioner, but be sure to rinse most of it out.
For the last part of your shower, omit warm water for cool or cold water to shine to your hair and prevent frizz.^{[5]XResearch source} For a little extra root volume try rinsing with your head upside down.
Before you shower, you can apply a deep conditioner like coconut oil to your hair once or twice a week. Before showering, apply it to your hair, focusing on the ends of your curls, and wear a shower cap. Leave the deep conditioner in for at least 10 minutes. The steam will soften and moisturize your hair as you wash your body first.^{[6]XResearch source}
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Apply a leave-in conditioner or cream by smoothing it onto your hair. After you step out of the shower, apply a leave-in conditioner or cream onto your hair to make sure it stays moisturized, and frizz free throughout the day.
- At this point, make sure your hair has no tangles left. If it does, gently untangle your hair with your fingers and then give it another rinse in the sink, making sure to reapply your conditioner.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Shaping Your Curls

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In order to help your hair hold the curls for a long time, you should use a holding gel or mousse on your curls before shaping them. Try to get water-soluble products rather than alcohol-based ones, that don’t feel sticky on the skin.^{[7]XResearch source} Experiment with products and amounts of products until you get the right combination for your hair.
After applying a holding product, cup your hair in your hands and scrunch in an upwards motion, holding it a few seconds each time. The more you scrunch, the curlier your hair will be. Keep doing it until no more water is dripping from your hair.
Take a section of your hair, ranging from 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) to 3 inches (7.6 cm) in diameter. Apply a holding gel or mousse, and twist the section around your finger, making sure to go with the natural curl of the section. This method will produce perfect ringlets. Take a larger section for looser curls, or keep it small for tighter curls.^{[8]XResearch source}
If you want even better defined curls, try the twirling method except in two sections instead of one. Finger comb each section of your hair, apply the holding gel or mousse, then divide one into two parts, and start twisting them around each other. You can add some coconut oil or coconut butter to the ends to make them softer.^{[9]XResearch source}
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Smooth your curls for a faster solution. Instead of scrunching or twirling, try simply smoothing your curls to save time. Start with one section of your hair and apply a holding product. Run your hands down you hair with open fingers, smoothing the curls vertically. When you’re done, switch to the next section.^{[10]XResearch source}
- The smaller your section is, the tighter your curls will be. The bigger your section is, the bigger your curls will be.
Also called the shingling method, this technique uses a big amount of conditioner on each hair strand to keep the curls moisturized and defined. Section your hair into four parts. Pick one and make a smaller section. Apply conditioner on your fingertips and run them through the section, smoothing the curl on the way. Lay it down and continue with the next small section.^{[11]XResearch source}

Part 3

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Drying Your Hair

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Generic towels are made of terry cloth, and the little loops that make up the cloth tend to catch on curly hair and cause frizz. Use paper towels or clothes such as t-shirts to remove the water from you hair.^{[12]XResearch source} Afterwards, plop your hair to help dry it faster.
Air-drying leads to the least amount of frizz, as blow-drying tends to make curly hair frizzy. However, if you don't have much time, make sure to blow-dry with a diffuser attachment.^{[13]XResearch source} Make sure you leave drying until after you are done shaping your curls.
Manhandling your hair will ruffle the cuticle and cause frizziness. If you want to have perfectly defined curls and a smooth-looking hair, try not to touch your hair at all until it is completely dry.^{[14]XResearch source} Once it’s dry, you can now enjoy your frizz-free spirals!

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What are sulfates?
Nine Morrison
Beauty Consultant
Nine Morrison is the owner of WedLocks Bridal Hair & Makeup, the largest bridal beauty company in Colorado. Her work has been featured in Brides Magazine, The Knot, and by Moroccanoil, and her company replicates this standard across 400+ weddings per year. She has been in the beauty industry for over 10 years, and also travels as a beauty educator and business consultant.
Nine Morrison
Beauty Consultant
Expert Answer
Sulfates are harsh cleansers that are found in products like laundry detergents. They're harsh and drying for your hair, and they rough up the outer layer, or the cuticle. Luckily, a lot of hair companies have taken most of the sulfates out of their products and replaced them with other lathering products that are much less harsh.
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How do I make my hair less frizzy?
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There are many leave-in products, sprays, and conditioners to help tame frizz. My personal favorite is Kerastase Discipline Fluidissme Spray, but find something that works for you. Also, avoid brushing your hair as much as possible.
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How do I get my curly hair back?
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If you are referring to getting curls back from previously damaged hair, the best thing to do would be to try products specifically meant to revive and replenish damaged hair. Also, no matter what you've done to your hair, new hair that grows out should grow undamaged and new. The long term solution would be to get haircuts often to remove the damaged hair, then be patient for the new undamaged hair to grow in.
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Tips

Some days, no matter how religiously you follow your styling regimen, you will still get frizz. Instead of putting your hair up though, embrace the frizz and let your hair be a little more wild that day.
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Apply a nourishing hair mask once a week for glossy curls.
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Use a satin or silk pillowcase to avoid frizziness.
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Warnings

Don't touch your hair until it is completely dry! Playing with wet natural hair will cause lots of frizz. However, if you do notice a curl that has to be fixed, just use a little water and reset it.
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