How to Cut Jeans to Make a Wider Leg

Found the perfect fitting pair of jeans, but aren't fond of the ankle-hugging look? Whether you want to convert straight leg jeans to accommodate boots or make a fashionable pair of bell bottoms, putting your sewing skills to work will allow you to widen the bottom of your pants and make them uniquely yours at the same time.

Steps

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To work well, the opening should not extend any further up than 1 inch below the knee.
2
Choose your insert material.
- Try to keep your insert fabric close to the weight of the pants fabric. Denim with denim, twill with twill, etc.
- Choose a patterned fabric, an alternating color, or paint or embroider on your insert for contrast. You might also match the color and weight closely for a more a subtle version.
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3
Start at the bottom of the leg on each side, using a seam ripper to open the seam to your desired length. You will sew the top of these slits closed (so that it doesn't tear anymore) later, when you add the insert (known as a 'gusset').
You will sew this back into place later when you hem the edge of the gusset.
5
Measure your openings.
6
Transfer measurement to gusset material.
7
Fold two pieces of your gusset material in half, one over the other, and mark your cutting line diagonally on the wrong side of the fabric.
- Be certain the diagonal cut is slightly longer than your slit length.
- When measuring where the bottom cut should begin, keep in mind that you are cutting twice the width that you are looking at because of the fold in your material (e.g. 4.5 inches will open to 9 inches).
- The reason for doing two pieces at once is to ensure that your gussets match in size and shape.
8
Cut both sides of your triangle gusset at the same time, keeping them symmetrical.
10
Pin the gusset edges to the raw edges of the slit legs, with right sides together.
11
Stitch down the edges of your pinned gusset. It is best if you use the same amount of seam allowance as was used to create the pants.
13
Turn the pants right side out and top stitch the seams. This will reinforce both your long seam as well as the top of the slit opening. You may want to backstitch several times over the top point of the slit to prevent unraveling later.
- As you top stitch, you will need to hold the area being sewn flat while allowing the pant leg to bunch up around the presser foot.
14
Roll the hems together and re-stitch the hem line.
15
Turn the pants right side out and repeat the process for the other leg.
Wear them proudly!

Community Q&A

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Question
Do you cut both sides of the jeans?
Community Answer
It is not necessary but it looks really cool if you cut both sides. Ripped jeans always look cooler if both the sides are ripped. Just measure the size you want to cut out and use sharp scissors to cut them.
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Tips

Practice on an old pair of pants first.
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Whenever possible, unravel the seam rather than cutting the material, then sew the open seams flat on each side of the leg opening. Unraveling the seam will make it much easier to sew the insert in.
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You can also reshape jeans right out of the washer and air dry i.e straighten them out, then stretch the bottoms to desired shape. Pulling legs straight down hard will lengthen them a bit too just be sure to reshape the bottom and air dry. The stiffness will go away after a short while wearing.
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