Download ArticleTake a deep dive into emo history: the fashion, the community, and, of course, the music
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This article was co-authored by Regina Dunn and by How.com.vn staff writer, Dev Murphy, MA. Regina has been passionate about the goth subculture for over 10 years. She studied goth fashion and subculture in school and she has worked to fight misinformation and misappropriation about the goth subculture within the media. Regina is active in a range of online communities and wikis, continuing to educate and get exposure for goth music and subculture.
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Teenagers have been self-identifying as "emo" for years, yet it still manages to confound and confuse the mainstream today: what is emo and what does it even mean to be emo? Based on the melodically aggressive underground music of mid-’80s Washington, D.C., emo has its roots in mostly hardcore punk and indie, but it has expanded into many styles, sounds, and cultures, from indie rock to pop-punk. Ready to immerse yourself in the emo scene? You’ve come to the right place! Below, we’ve developed a guide to all things emo, including the history, the music, and the culture. Keep reading to learn more and adopt this lifestyle for yourself!
Things You Should Know
- Adopt a classic emo look by giving yourself long, side-swept bangs and black eyeliner. Wear vintage T-shirts, thick horn-rimmed glasses, and canvas slip-on shoes.
- Add some emo bands (like Rites of Spring or Jimmy Eat World) and emo subgenres (such as emo-pop or screamo) to your playlist.
- Participate in emo culture to really feel like a part of the emo community.
Steps
Dress in emo clothes. Add some emo garb to your wardrobe. In the beginning, there was no real emo fashion, but as it moved towards the mainstream, that's when skinny jeans and eyeliner started to become popular. Look for vintage, black-and-white clothes or clothes advertising emo bands like Rites of Spring, Moss Icon, Sunny Day Real Estate, Armor for Sleep, or American Football.- Plaid shirts and sweaters are popular in Midwestern emo fashion.[1] But you can also deck yourself out in checked shirts and vintage clothes, and be sure to wear a hoodie.
- Skinny jeans: buy several pairs of black, blue, and even multi-colored skinny jeans; you can even branch out into boot cut jeans. Anything that you are comfortable in will work best.
- Jean cuffing was an emo trend from the late 1970s to the early ’80s. To do this, simply take the bottom of your pants leg and fold it upward once or twice.
Deck yourself out in emo accessories. The emo look is incomplete without a few classic accessories like scarves, patterned socks, and wristbands. Again, band merch or vintage items are your friend. And be sure to accent your wardrobe with lots of studs and safety pins.- Wear bandanas, scarves, stripy socks, wristbands/sweatbands, studded belts, safety pins/badges, and fingerless gloves.
- Wear a messenger bag to carry your notebooks and diary around; you never know when you may get a hit of inspiration.
- Opt for flat shoes such as Converse or Vans. Any type of canvas slip-on shoes work well, too, and you can buy these from any budget shoe store. You do not have to buy them new, and they can be off-brand.[2]
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Embrace androgyny. Style is largely similar for emo kids of all genders. The haircuts, dress, and use of make-up tend to cross genders, resulting in a distinctive and androgynous look.- While there are certain emo fashion trends, the most important thing is to wear what you feel good in and what you can get. It’s not about being pressured to look a certain way or shelling out wads of cash for new clothes.
Get an emo makeover. Get an emo hairdo and apply lots of dark eyeliner and nail polish to achieve the emo look. Up until the mid-2000s, there was no real emo hairstyle, but these days, "emo hair" usually refers to a particular layered haircut in which long bangs are swept and styled to one side and held in place with mousse, hair gel, or pomade. You can keep the color the same, or you can dye your hair black and maybe even include a bright highlight of blonde or other punky colors, like highlighter pink or yellow.- If you prefer to wear your hair short, grow out your bangs but continue to get clean-up cuts on the back of your neck for a “party up front, business in the back” look. If you wear your hair long, get layers in your hair on the sides and maintain the classic emo bangs.
- Use pencil eyeliner or liquid liner—whichever you’re comfortable with. Just make sure your liner is dark and dramatic!
- Consider getting piercings too. Snake bites and septum rings are very common piercings among the emo community.
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Learn about the origins of emo. To be emo, you need to understand emo. Contrary to mainstream belief, emo does not mean emotional. It stands for “emotive hardcore” and is a subgenre of hardcore punk and post-hardcore.[3] Emo emerged from the Washington, D.C., hardcore punk scene of the mid-’80s.[4] The first printed use of the term "emo-core" was first said to be used in Thrasher magazine.[5] It was used to describe bands who used a more confessional, self-questioning, and personal approach to lyrical themes as opposed to the confrontational and politically-charged themes of its parent genre.[6] Other facts about emocore include:- The Beach Boys' 1966 album Pet Sounds was labeled "the first emo album" by Treblezine’s Ernest Simpson.[7]
- Minor Threat fan Guy Picciotto despised the heightened violence in the hardcore punk scene, so he formed Rites of Spring, known as the first emo band, in 1984 to turn the focus back to the individual. To add to their legacy, they were only documented performing 15 times in 2 years before their disbandment in 1986.[8]
- In 1980, Ian Mackaye founded Dischord Records, which signed many Washington, D.C. hardcore punk bands and eventually signed Mackaye and Picciotto's iconic band Fugazi. Fugazi was not emo, drawing in elements of hardcore, funk, and jazz instead[9], but they did inspire emo bands in the mid-’90s to abandon conventional hardcore roots.
- Minor Threat member Ian Mackaye formed the short-lived band Embrace in 1985. They followed the same characteristics of Rites of Spring. However, they hated being called “emo.”[10]
- Revolution Summer 1985 was a social movement in the D.C. hardcore punk scene. It was an attempt by bands like Gray Matter, Beefeater, Dag Nasty, and Soulside to break the limitations of hardcore punk to make way for creative musical innovations.[11]
Know the subgenres of emo. Emo didn’t evolve as much as it grew offshoots and subgenres. The original emocore sound is still around, but as the decades went on, other bands who became part of the scene added and exchanged characteristics. That being said, if you're more into one emo style than another, it doesn't matter because it's still emo. Here are the subgenres of emo:- Emocore: short for emotive hardcore, the original style of emo which grew from the Washington D.C hardcore punk scene in the mid-80s with Rites of Spring and Embrace. Other bands followed suit such as Gray Matter and Fire Party, who was termed "the world's first female-fronted emo band".[12]
- Post-emo indie rock/Midwest emo: Emo was reinvented in the ’90s, becoming more melodic and mixed with indie rock to create a softer sound. A perfect example of this sound is Sunny Day Real Estate's 1994 album Diary. Midwest emo was popular enough to form a small subculture surrounding the genre, and was more romantic than emo had ever been.[13]
- Emo pop: Emo-pop is a fusion genre of emo and pop-punk. The genre's characteristics include more concise, hook-filled choruses, high-pitched melodies, and lyrical themes addressing adolescence, relationships, and heartbreak.[14] Pioneers include The Get Up Kids, The Promise Ring, and Jimmy Eat World, whose single The Middle broke into the mainstream in the ’00s.
- Screamo: Screamo is a misunderstood genre originating from San Diego in 1991 with bands like Heroin and Antioch Arrow.[15] The style has more aggressive styled vocals, unconventional song structures, and lyrical themes of human rights, politics, romantic interest, and emotional pain. The genre is incredibly influenced by hardcore punk. Some sub-genres of screamo include emoviolence, sasscore, post-rock/screamo, blackened screamo, and skramgaze.[16]
Appreciate emo music. Start finding emo bands to listen to, and start expanding your music taste. To understand what emo sounds like, try out the most popular and stable albums and bands of the genre:- Emocore: Rites of Spring - End on End (1991), Embrace - eponymous (1987), Gray Matter - Food for Thought (1990), Dag Nasty - Can I Say (1986), Moss Icon - Lyburnum Wits End Liberation Fly (1994).
- Post-emo indie rock/Midwest emo: Sunny Day Real Estate - Diary (1994), Texas Is the Reason - Do You Know Who You Are? (1996), Christie Front Drive - eponymous (1997), The Promise Ring - 30° Everywhere (1996), Cap'n Jazz - Analphabetapolothology (1998). Other famous Midwestern emo bands include American Football and Mineral.[17]
- Emo Pop: The Get Up Kids - Something to Write Home About (1999), Thursday - Full Collapse (2001), Jimmy Eat World - Bleed American (2001), Panic! at the Disco - A Fever You Can't Sweat Out (2005), You Me At Six - Take Off Your Colours (2008).
- Screamo: Circle Takes the Square - As The Roots Undo (2004), Touché Amoré – Is Survived By (2013), City of Caterpillar - eponymous (2002), Pg. 99 - Document #8 (2001), Funeral Diner - Difference of Potential (2000)[18], Orchid - Dance Tonight! Revolution Tomorrow! (2000). Antioch Arrow is another popular screamo band.[19]
Tell the difference between emo and other subcultures. Emo sometimes gets confused with other similar subcultures and it’s important not to get them mixed up. In particular, avoid confusing emo and scene, and be sure to know the difference between emo and goth.- Emo is a subculture that is based around music.[20] It has a longer history than scenes and deals with emotions, self-expression, and self-exploration. Being emo means you understand your roots, listen to emo music, and participate in the community.
- Scene is a subculture that emerged from members of the chav subculture in England experimenting with alternative fashions. It is a mixture of several styles including emo, indie pop, rave, and punk fashions. Scenes tend to wear brighter colors, and have teased/backcombed hair which may feature "cool tails." Scene kids tend to listen to music genres like metalcore, deathcore, and crunkcore,[21] as opposed to emo kids who listen to emo genres.
- Goth is a subculture that emerged from the British post-punk scene in the late ’70s/early ’80s. Goths primarily listen to goth rock, cold wave, deathrock, and darkwave music. Bela Lugosi's Dead, the 1979 single by Bauhaus, was said to be the birth of the music genre[22], and the Batcave, a nightclub that was said to be the birthplace of the subculture, opened in 1982.[23]
Develop a passion for different kinds of music. Generally speaking, all emo music has 2 things in common: big, sweeping, extremely melodramatic guitar-based music (either aggressive and harsh or acoustic and gentle), and confessional or personal lyrics, often about heartbreak and loneliness. Beyond that, lots of emo bands might sound wildly different: The Used doesn't sound much like Death Cab for Cutie which doesn't sound anything like Jawbreaker. But they're all emo bands. Pick the sounds you like and don't listen to what you don't like.- If you want to dress emo and listen to Sunny Day Real Estate, go for it. If you also have Lady Gaga, Johnny Cash, and Cannibal Ox on your Spotify Weekly, that doesn't make you any less emo. A real "emo" is someone who listens to emotive hardcore music and genres surrounding it, so as long as you're into emo, you are emo.
- While a guy with dark hair and eyeliner listening to Dashboard Confessional in Columbus, Ohio might be considered emo by a lot of people, the California blonde who surfs and listens to Dashboard Confessional might consider herself emo as well.
Look to the bands for tips. For tips about music, definitions of "emo," and fashion, check out the folks making the music for advice. See who they listen to, who they're influenced by, what they read, and what they recommend. Learn straight from the source.- And read up on the culture! For a great book highlighting the history of emo, check out Nothing Feels Good by Andy Greenwald.
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Go to shows. Originally, emo was a small local scene that attracted national attention. In this way, a movement started that's now global. Get back in touch with that original impulse by hanging around the local shows in your own backyard. It's one thing to go to the Warped Tour and check out the national bands you hear, but it's another to check out and support local emo bands who are trying to get started.- Volunteer to help out at all-ages shows and DIY clubs to put on gigs. Hand out fliers and befriend other bands. Check out local zines (and make your own) and participate in the scene.
Cultivate a creative persona. In general, the emo subculture values the arts. Painting, making music, writing, and expressing yourself creatively are all important ways to participate in the emo subculture. Find a way to express yourself and devote your free time to perfecting your art.- Write poetry and turn your words into songs, or write reviews of emo music and start a music blog.
Consider picking up an instrument. Being able to play music by yourself or in a band would give you huge credibility and would be a fun way to engage with emo more directly. Start writing your own songs and playing your own music and you'll be actively participating in the creative culture.- Try playing the bass or guitar, or perhaps even the violin, which many emo songs feature. Consider the drums too: drummers are in regular demand for all sorts of bands.
Make your own clothes. If emo is punk, then we can assume emo is DIY too. Most original emo bands were very short-lived and didn't even put their music onto CDs, never mind make t-shirts. This might be your perfect opportunity to create your own t-shirts, badges, pins, patches, and bags with your favorite emo bands on them.- Decorate your converse. Personalize your Converse or Vans with band logos or doodles. Show your creativity, but just be mindful of what you write on there and be careful of mistakes (if it's a permanent marker, it won't come off).
- Added patches and pins onto your messenger bag. This is a perfect chance to showcase your favorite emo bands.[24]
- Find a good website to design your own t-shirt, or lino print your shirts yourself. Just make sure to check all terms and conditions before attempting to print any sort of logo that may be copyrighted.
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Expert Q&A
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- QuestionHow can I be emo as an adult?
Natalie TincherNatalie Tincher is the Owner and Principal Style Strategist of BU Style. With more than 10 years of experience, Natalie specializes in personal styling to reflect clients’ individuality, confidence, and comfort. In 2019, she was named the Global Head of Styling for Bloomberg Television. Natalie is certified in Image Consulting through the Fashion Institute of Technology. She regularly shares her expertise with corporate groups at major financial institutions, media companies, and news outlets including: Time Out New York, Refinery 29, and NBC News.
Style Strategist & Wardrobe SpecialistTry experimenting with various hair colors, investing in band sweatshirts with a personal story, accessorizing with chunky, studded jewelry, and/or slipping into Lug sole boots or classic black Converse sneakers. You can also switch to a slim, all-black clothing style—just keep in mind that slim fit is narrow and straight while skinny fit is tighter and tapered. - QuestionCan you be emo without looking like it?
Regina DunnRegina has been passionate about the goth subculture for over 10 years. She studied goth fashion and subculture in school and she has worked to fight misinformation and misappropriation about the goth subculture within the media. Regina is active in a range of online communities and wikis, continuing to educate and get exposure for goth music and subculture.
Goth Subculture EnthusiastSure! Remember that the emo subculture is practically just about music. Not all fans typically dress in any “style” and there isn't really a community, except for the concerts/gigs and online. - QuestionWhat should I do if my parents don't want me to be emo?
Community AnswerJust take it slowly, easing into the culture and fashion. Slowly start listening to the music, dressing emo, trying out new hairstyles, etc. If they give you issues, calmly let them know why emo music and culture is important to you.
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Tips
- Put your own spin on things. Incorporate other types of fashion that interest you into your emo look. For instance, goggles are an edgy item not usually seen in emo fashion, but that doesn't mean you can't incorporate them into an emo look. Try not to worry about being called a "poseur."Thanks
- Emo is sometimes associated with self-harm and may be viewed as glorifying poor mental health. Reject these negative associations. Emo is about creativity, self-expression, and community.Thanks
Tips from our Readers 
The advice in this section is based on the lived experiences of How.com.vn readers like you. If you have a helpful tip you’d like to share on How.com.vn, please submit it in the field below.
- If you're scared that your parents won't like you being emo, start slow. Begin by just wearing black clothes and listening to emo music. Then, slowly start changing your hair in stages. Your parents will be less concerned by your style choices if you make changes slowly over time.
- Looks are the least important if you want to be authentically emo. I'm actually blonde, blue-eyed, and love wearing bright colors, but I'm definitely the most emo person I know. So long as you love the culture and music, you're emo!
- A big part of being emo is being happy with yourself and not caring about what everyone else thinks about you. Don't shy away from dressing and acting however you want, even if everything about you isn't "100% emo."
- Embrace the Holy Emo Trinity. Fall Out Boy, My Chemical Romance, and Panic! At The Disco are considered the three most important bands in emo culture.
- Laugh it off if people try to put you down for being emo. A big part of being emo is not caring what other people think. Express yourself!
- There's a nasty stereotype out there that emo people cut themselves. The reality is that emo culture is very against self-harm.
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Warnings
- Dyeing, bleaching, teasing, using straighteners without heat protection, and washing too much can all do long-term damage on your hair. It's recommended that you use deep-conditioning treatments frequently. Do not straighten your hair every day, or you will fry it; on off days, try wearing a snapback or beanie to hide messy hair.Thanks
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References
- ↑ Regina Dunn. Goth Subculture Enthusiast. Expert Interview. 12 July 2021.
- ↑ Regina Dunn. Goth Subculture Enthusiast. Expert Interview. 12 July 2021.
- ↑ King, I. (2016). The History Of Emo. [online] The Odyssey Online. Available at: https://www.theodysseyonline.com/the-history-of-emo [Accessed 21 Jul. 2018].
- ↑ Hear & Now. (2017). The Emo Project: Your home for emo, screamo + pop-punk from the 2000s and today. [online] Available at https://blog.siriusxm.com/the-emo-project-your-home-for-emo-screamo-pop-punk-from-the-2000s-and-today/ [Accessed 21 Jul. 2018].
- ↑ Redding, D. (2016). In 1986, Ian MacKaye Dismissed the Term 'Emo': "The Stupidest Fucking Thing I've Ever Heard" | Culture Creature. [online] Culture Creature. Available at: https://www.culturecreature.com/emo-term-meaning/ [Accessed 21 Jul. 2018].
- ↑ Campbell, Michael. Popular Music in America:The Beat Goes On. Nelson Education, 2012. p. 360
- ↑ Simpson, E. (2004). The Beach Boys : Pet Sounds. [online] Treblezine.com. Available at: https://www.treblezine.com/the-beach-boys-pet-sounds/ [Accessed 21 Jul. 2018].
- ↑ Connick, T. (2018). The beginner’s guide to the evolution of emo. [online] Nme.com. Available at: https://www.nme.com/blogs/nme-blogs/emo-wave-guide-evolution-2302802 [Accessed 21 Jul. 2018].
- ↑ Greenwald, A. (2003). Nothing Feels Good: Punk Rock, Teenagers, and Emo. New York: St. Martin's Griffin, p.17
- ↑ Greenwald, A. (2003). Nothing Feels Good: Punk Rock, Teenagers, and Emo. New York: St. Martin's Griffin, p.14
- ↑ Blush, Steven (2001). American Hardcore: A Tribal History. New York City: Feral House. p. 157. ISBN 0-922915-71-7
- ↑ Greenwald, A. (2003). Nothing Feels Good: Punk Rock, Teenagers, and Emo. New York: St. Martin's Griffin, p.14
- ↑ Greenwald, A. (2003). Nothing Feels Good: Punk Rock, Teenagers, and Emo. New York: St. Martin's Griffin, p.35
- ↑ Morgan Britton, L. (2018). BBC - Emo never dies: How the genre influenced an entirely new generation. [online] BBC. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/1tM7yZdRsNn2qZth0WMCRBs/emo-never-dies-how-the-genre-influenced-an-entire-new-generation [Accessed 22 Jul. 2018].
- ↑ Lipez, Z. (2013). Aaron Montaigne, Godfather of Screamo, is More Interesting Than You Can Ever Hope to Be - Part One. [online] Noisey. Available at: https://noisey.vice.com/en_us/article/rgjqx6/aaron-montaigne-godfather-of-screamo-is-more-interesting-than-you-can-ever-hope-to-be-part-one [Accessed 22 Jul. 2018].
- ↑ Regina Dunn. Goth Subculture Enthusiast. Expert Interview. 12 July 2021.
- ↑ Regina Dunn. Goth Subculture Enthusiast. Expert Interview. 12 July 2021.
- ↑ Terich, J., Bossenger, A. and Barisone, J. (n.d.). 10 Essential Screamo Albums. [online] Treblezine.com. Available at: https://www.treblezine.com/10-best-screamo-albums/ [Accessed 22 Jul. 2018].
- ↑ Regina Dunn. Goth Subculture Enthusiast. Expert Interview. 12 July 2021.
- ↑ Regina Dunn. Goth Subculture Enthusiast. Expert Interview. 12 July 2021.
- ↑ https://www.theguardian.com/music/2010/feb/25/emo-pop-tribes-mods-punks
- ↑ Venters, J, (2009), Gothic Charm School: An Essential Guide For Goths and Those Who Love Them, Am I a Goth?, p.9 ISBN 978-0061669163
- ↑ Roberts, C, Livingstone, H and Baxter-Wright, E, (2016), Goth: The Design, Art and Fashion of a Dark Subculture, Music, p.134 ISBN 978-1780978864
- ↑ Regina Dunn. Goth Subculture Enthusiast. Expert Interview. 12 July 2021.
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To be emo, start by incorporating emo fashion into your look by wearing vintage t-shirts, thick horn-rimmed glasses, and canvas shoes. Additionally, wear black or blue skinny jeans and roll the bottoms into cuffs. To complete your outfit, grab a black hooded sweatshirt, and add band patches for a distinctively emo flair. You can also style your hair so that it’s short in the back with long bangs swept across your forehead. Finally, create an artistic persona by writing poetry or learning an instrument, since emo culture centered on the arts. To learn how to differentiate between the different subgenres of emo, read on!
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