How to Apply Shadow on Hooded Eyes

When it comes to applying eye makeup, the common goal is to make eyes look bigger. If you have hooded eyes, however, this task can be a bit trickier. Hooded eyes have a bit of extra skin that hangs over the eyelid crease. This “hood” of skin makes the eye look smaller, and it can also complicate eye shadow application.^{[1]XResearch source} With the proper technique and a few key tricks, you can make your hooded eyes look large, bright, and beautiful.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Preparing Your Eyelids

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1
Prime your eyelids.^{[2]XExpert SourceKatya Gudaeva
Professional Makeup ArtistExpert Interview. 11 April 2019.} While this is important for everyone, it’s especially critical for those with hooded eyes. Primer creates a base for your makeup that helps it stay put and last all day.^{[3]XResearch source} Because hooded eyes are prone to smudging and smearing, primer can make all the difference.^{[4]XResearch source}
- Use your fingertip to apply the primer, and allow it to absorb into your skin for a minute or so before proceeding.
2
Gather your brushes. There are a variety of different eye shadow brushes that work well for different things. To apply your eye shadow most precisely, you will need a standard eye shadow brush, a tapered blending brush, and a firmer, straight brush.^{[5]XExpert SourceKatya Gudaeva
Professional Makeup ArtistExpert Interview. 11 April 2019.} These three brushes will help you to get the most flawless application.^{[6]XResearch source}
- You can find these brushes at a drugstore or beauty supply store.
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3
Choose your colors. For hooded eyes, you will use a light shade, a medium shade, and a dark shade, all with a matte finish. You will also need one light shimmer color for highlighting.^{[7]XResearch source} When it comes to choosing the exact colors, it’s a matter of personal preference. You can create a more natural look using cream and brown colors, with a gold or bronze shimmer. You can create a dramatic smoky eye with grays, blacks, and silver shimmer.^{[8]XExpert SourceKatya Gudaeva
Professional Makeup ArtistExpert Interview. 11 April 2019.}
- You can learn more about finding your best eye shadow here.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Using Shadow to Accentuate Your Eyes

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This will highlight the hood, drawing attention to the extra skin that you want to minimize. Instead, use a shadow brush to apply a medium, matte color to your crease.^{[9]XExpert SourceKatya Gudaeva
Professional Makeup ArtistExpert Interview. 11 April 2019.} This will give you dimension without emphasizing the hood.^{[10]XResearch source}
2
Bring your crease color higher in the inner corners of your eyes. This is another simple trick to make your eye appear larger and more open. After you’ve applied the matte shadow to your crease and blended it, use your shadow brush to softly drag this color upwards to your brow bone only in the inner corners.^{[11]XResearch source}
- You don’t want this to be dark or as pigmented as your crease – just a light application of color to open your eyes.
3
Apply a light shimmer to your inner corners. If you have a beloved, light shimmer shadow, this is your chance to use it. By applying a bright shimmer into the inner corners of your eye, you will make your eyes appear vivid and youthful.^{[12]XResearch source} Hooded eyes can make you look perpetually drowsy, so this inner corner highlight is a great way to counteract that.
- A light gold, a pastel pink, or a pearl color are perfect choices for this step.
- Apply it lightly with a shadow brush or even with a fingertip.
The keyword here is light. You don’t want to use a super pigmented, frosty color, because that will make your highlight look extremely bold and unnatural. Instead, pick a soft, matte color in a color like champagne, baby pink, soft silver, or light brown. Apply it with a light hand, directly under your brow. This will give your brow bone more dimension.^{[13]XResearch source}
Using a tapered blending brush, apply the dark shadow to the outer corner of your eye, focusing on the crease. This will accentuate the crease even more, carving it out to add depth. Blend it thoroughly, so that there are no harsh lines in your shadow.^{[14]XResearch source}
When it comes to hooded eyes, the focus should be on the inner and outer corners, which are most visible. In fact for many people with hooded eyes, the middle of the lid is completely hidden when your eyes are open. Don’t leave it naked though. Apply a light color to the lid, softly blending it into the dark color on the outer corner and the shimmer in the inner corner.^{[15]XResearch source}

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Enhancing Your Eyes Alternatively

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1
Fill in your eyebrows. Just like eye shadow, a properly filled-in eyebrow can help to enhance the shape of your hooded eye, making it look open and elongated. Use an angled brow brush to fill in the thin, sparse areas of your eyebrow with a powder or gel.
- Use small, hair-like strokes as you fill in your brows. Use a spoolie to brush your brow hairs upwards in order to see every spot that needs to be filled in.
- For hooded eyes, it’s very important to avoid dragging the tail of the eyebrow downwards. Pay special attention to make sure the tail ends parallel with the outer corner of your eye. Make sure it doesn’t extend past that or swoop downwards dramatically, because this will make your hooded eye seem droopy.
2
Apply black eyeliner to the outer corners of your eyes. Rather than lining your entire eye with eyeliner, only apply the product to the outer corner on both the top and bottom lash lines. Use an eyeliner that you can blend, such as a pencil. Start applying the liner in the outer corner, moving inwards so that you’ve lined about 1/3 of your bottom lash line. Then, do the same thing on the top lash line.^{[16]XResearch source}
- Use a straight brush to blend the liner. The goal with this step is to soften out the line, helping it blend into your shadow.
- Make sure to use a smudge-proof eyeliner.
3
Add a lighter, shimmer liner on the bottom of the inner corners. Once again, adding a highlight to the inner corners of your eyes will make them look bigger, brighter, and more alert. This liner works with the shimmery shadow in your inner corners to really combat the droopiness of hooded eyes.^{[17]XResearch source}
- A shimmery brown, bronze, gold or silver will work well for this step.
Use your eyelash curler at the roots of your eyelashes, holding for a few seconds on each. Curling your eyelashes upwards will also help to open your eyes up. Then, apply your favorite mascara. For those with hooded eyes, your mascara is prone to rubbing off onto your brow bone. Make sure you choose a smudge-proof mascara to keep your lashes dark and luscious, but your brow bone mascara-free.^{[18]XResearch source}

Expert Q&A

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Question
How can I fix my eyeshadow if I make a mistake when applying it?
Katya Gudaeva
Professional Makeup Artist
Katya Gudaeva is a Professional Makeup Artist and the Founder of Bridal Beauty Agency based in Seattle, Washington. She has worked in the beauty industry for over 10 years and worked with companies such as Patagonia, Tommy Bahama, and Barneys New York and with clients such as Amy Schumer, Macklemore, and Train.
Katya Gudaeva
Professional Makeup Artist
Expert Answer
Just use a little Q-Tip to fix it. Dip the Q-Tip into water to remove the makeup and clean it up.
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Question
Why is it important to blend eyeshadow?
Katya Gudaeva
Professional Makeup Artist
Katya Gudaeva is a Professional Makeup Artist and the Founder of Bridal Beauty Agency based in Seattle, Washington. She has worked in the beauty industry for over 10 years and worked with companies such as Patagonia, Tommy Bahama, and Barneys New York and with clients such as Amy Schumer, Macklemore, and Train.
Katya Gudaeva
Professional Makeup Artist
Expert Answer
If you don't blend, you can see where the colors of the eyeshadow start and end. This can end up looking pretty noticeable. Blending the eyeshadow serves the purpose of creating a beautiful look without people noticing that you're wearing makeup.
Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
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